Restricted Access

All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an overhang. Climb the gently overhanging wall on positive holds and finish up a flake-crack in the headwall. Stunning. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 30/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Olympian (6's) , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
alasdaircavaye 18 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb. Very varied
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb. Very varied
Pino 20 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: dangerous start (as most)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: dangerous start (as most)
nealh 2 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: alternatively you need some cojones!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: alternatively you need some cojones!
Sash.C 14 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Stretchy on the legs?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stretchy on the legs?
nugski 13 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: good climb. great hand holds quite stretchy on the legs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good climb. great hand holds quite stretchy on the legs.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: John, the rock that held the first bolt parted company with the rest of the crag a couple of years ago...
Show beta
βeta: John, the rock that held the first bolt parted company with the rest of the crag a couple of years ago...
John Alcock 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Classic route, but what a stupid, dangerous first bolt placement. As it's the easiest route in the area, people often go on it first when it's still greasy. Why has it got a potential death fall while going for the first clip?
Show beta
βeta: Classic route, but what a stupid, dangerous first bolt placement. As it's the easiest route in the area, people often go on it first when it's still greasy. Why has it got a potential death fall while going for the first clip?

Logged Ascents

902 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wallsend South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 230 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 109
Votes cast 101
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

Loading Notifications...