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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A pitch with a hard lower-crux. Start just right of the wide, broken corner-crack. Climb the wall direct with a bouldery move on the steep initial wall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 21/May/1996.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tituscrags 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Defo need a clip stick for this, low crux is a bit hard for the grade but the rest is 6b+/6c climbing, nice route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo need a clip stick for this, low crux is a bit hard for the grade but the rest is 6b+/6c climbing, nice route
Richard Horn 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Didnt try this route as first bolt appeared very high, and mid-way through (what looked like) the hard section far too high up to consider falling. Did we miss something or is clip stick the only option?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didnt try this route as first bolt appeared very high, and mid-way through (what looked like) the hard section far too high up to consider falling. Did we miss something or is clip stick the only option?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Horny Lil' Devil

Grade: 7a ***
(Lulworth)

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