Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
14m.

Rockfax Description
S0. A brilliant juggy traverse across the bottom of the wall passing a double kneebar shakeout mid-route. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 19/May/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Hard water , Jurassic 7a , Dorset weekender , Dorset DWS progression , Portland Trip , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , Unfinished business , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , South England DWS Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
AlexD 13 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is a little Rock Pippit nesting in the last hole of the traverse before pulling onto the final wall. Please don't disturb.
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βeta: There is a little Rock Pippit nesting in the last hole of the traverse before pulling onto the final wall. Please don't disturb.
django 13 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: ...this much fun should be illegal!
βeta?
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βeta: ...this much fun should be illegal!
harrybeadle 19 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Seagulls nesting on the ridge approach 17/6/20, only way is to swim in.
βeta?
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βeta: Seagulls nesting on the ridge approach 17/6/20, only way is to swim in.
Toby Lee 11 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I'd say its S1 - the first ~2m are above sharp rocks on slab below, take care here
βeta?
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βeta: I'd say its S1 - the first ~2m are above sharp rocks on slab below, take care here
GwynethUttley 4 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute classic
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βeta: Absolute classic
john nightingale 23 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: mass ascent from the nottingham boys, but as usual pete fell off.
βeta?
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βeta: mass ascent from the nottingham boys, but as usual pete fell off.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
To Wish the Impossible

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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