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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below a shallow corner. Climb the rib just left of the corner (hard) to gain the wall proper and easier climbing. Follow the wall to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to a final leaning headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 07/Nov/1992.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , ICAS Climbing Club , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , The post lockdown local list , PO2021 , Portland scheming , Portland Pyramid (2024)

Feedback

User Date Notes
salexc 27 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I pay into the bolt fund every month, and I should very much like to sponsor a bolt between 2nd and 3rd please. The very real chance of decking out on to the ledge is no fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I pay into the bolt fund every month, and I should very much like to sponsor a bolt between 2nd and 3rd please. The very real chance of decking out on to the ledge is no fun.
RockSteady 20 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A little runout in places.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A little runout in places.
Sash.C 14 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not as hard as you expected? i think its perfectly graded at 6b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as hard as you expected? i think its perfectly graded at 6b.
nugski 13 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: not as hard as i expect. trick first part but good rest points throughout. enjoyable climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: not as hard as i expect. trick first part but good rest points throughout. enjoyable climb.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Overrated in my humble opinion and not as good as either of the two climbs to the left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Overrated in my humble opinion and not as good as either of the two climbs to the left.
John Alcock 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Always a relief to reach the 2nd bolt, particularly as you can't see it from below. Big stretch for the short to gain the first holds Great route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Always a relief to reach the 2nd bolt, particularly as you can't see it from below. Big stretch for the short to gain the first holds Great route though.
Pete 26 Feb, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: On Sunday 18th February 2001 I was laybacking up the flake to the right of the first bolt when a huge bit broke off with me attached. The block hit the crack in the ledge below and broke in half and wedged. Luckily it missed my second and I swung on the bolt, but it was close! Anyway, I am reporting it because the route has changed. I don't think its any harder - just different - still a great route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On Sunday 18th February 2001 I was laybacking up the flake to the right of the first bolt when a huge bit broke off with me attached. The block hit the crack in the ledge below and broke in half and wedged. Luckily it missed my second and I swung on the bolt, but it was close! Anyway, I am reporting it because the route has changed. I don't think its any harder - just different - still a great route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 95
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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