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230m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the UK. Start beneath the well-worn corner with the letters 'GA' scratched on the rock on its right-hand side.

1) 4a, 30m. Climb the tricky polished corner then make a move rightwards onto a slab. Climb this and continue up a crack, or the wall to the left, to the top of the rib.
2) 12m. Walk/scramble easily up left to the base of a long groove with a roof at half-height.
3) 50m. Climb cracks on the right-hand side of the groove past the roof, then step left into the smaller continuation groove which leads to a ledge. Belay on the next ledge a little higher.
4) 30m. Scramble up right to a path and walk along this to the base of a rib and the letters 'GA' on the rock again.
5) 4a, 50m. Start on the right of the rib and climb up and leftwards to gain the groove above. Follow this until a step left gains a steeper continuation-groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty until a move leftwards gains The Haven - a good ledge, block belay well back.
6) 20m. The infamous Knight's Move pitch. How's your chess? Climb the crack behind the belay to reach the chessboard slab above. Exit this slab by the top right corner, step round the arete to find a comfortable stance.
7) 20m. Romp up the corner above the belay to reach a good stance. An escape rightwards from here is easy if the weather is bad or darkness is closing in.
8) 25m. Head a little way right and climb the steep rock to a rib. Follow this to an ever-easing finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the UK. Start beneath the well-worn corner with the letters 'GA' scratched on the rock.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the tricky polished corner then make a move rightwards onto a slab. Climb this and continue up a crack, or the wall to the left, to the top of the rib.
2) 12m. Walk/scramble easily up left to the base of a long groove with a roof at half-height.
3) 50m. Climb cracks on the right-hand side of the groove past the roof, then step left into the smaller continuation groove which leads to a ledge. Belay on the next ledge a little higher.
4) 30m. Scramble up right to a path and walk along this to the base of a rib and the letters 'GA' on the rock again.
5) 4a, 50m. Start on the right of the rib and climb up and leftwards to gain the groove above. Follow this until a step left gains a steeper continuation-groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty until a move leftwards gains The Haven - a good ledge, block belay well back.
6) 20m. The infamous Knight's Move pitch. How's your chess? Climb the crack behind the belay to reach the chessboard slab above. Exit this slab by the top right corner, step round the arete to find a comfortable stance.
7) 20m. Romp up the corner above the belay to reach a good stance. An escape rightwards from here is easy if the weather is bad or darkness is closing in.
8) 25m. Head a little way right and climb the steep rock to a rib. Follow this to an ever-easing finish.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, A grand easy welsh day out, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, CUMC Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Ogwen 1000, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Big Easys, High Quality Adventure routes, Snowdonia in Chains, Big Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, The Long Routes, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, University of Exeter must tick's, Going Up Rocks, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Ogwen, Mountain Rock, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 2020 Trips, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round, Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cameron3298 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Extremely polished still excellent climbing easy pro, soled a couple of pitches felt worth it :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Extremely polished still excellent climbing easy pro, soled a couple of pitches felt worth it :)
Sasha.kitching 15 Aug Show βeta
βeta: just combine pitch 1 and 2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: just combine pitch 1 and 2
liamhughes1981 11 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Don't forget pitch 8! Pitch 7 spits you pretty much onto the path skirting round Tryfan but there is another pitch after this up the boulder and ridge above the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't forget pitch 8! Pitch 7 spits you pretty much onto the path skirting round Tryfan but there is another pitch after this up the boulder and ridge above the belay.
DJF 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Belay after checkerboard/ knights move is a difficult place to be with traffic. Try and check it's clear before getting on to the slab.
 
Show beta
βeta: Belay after checkerboard/ knights move is a difficult place to be with traffic. Try and check it's clear before getting on to the slab.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 200
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 130
Votes cast 379
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pencoed Pillar

Grade: HVD ***
(Craig Cau (Cadair Idris))