UKH

230m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the UK. Start beneath the well-worn corner with the letters 'GA' scratched on the rock on its right-hand side..
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the tricky polished corner then make a move rightwards onto a slab. Climb this and continue up a crack, or the wall to the left, to the top of the rib.
2) 12m. Walk/scramble easily up left to the base of a long groove with a roof at half-height.
3) 50m. Climb cracks on the right-hand side of the groove past the roof, then step left into the smaller continuation groove which leads to a ledge. Belay on the next ledge a little higher.
4) 30m. Scramble up right to a path and walk along this to the base of a rib and the letters 'GA' on the rock again.
5) 4a, 50m. Start on the right of the rib and climb up and leftwards to gain the groove above. Follow this until a step left gains a steeper continuation-groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty until a move leftwards gains The Haven - a good ledge, block belay well back.
6) 20m. The infamous Knight's Move pitch. How's your chess? Climb the crack behind the belay to reach the chessboard slab above. Exit this slab by the top right corner, step round the arete to find a comfortable stance.
7) 20m. Romp up the corner above the belay to reach a good stance. An escape rightwards from here is easy if the weather is bad or darkness is closing in.
8) 25m. Head a little way right and climb the steep rock to a rib. Follow this to an ever-easing finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the UK. Start beneath the well-worn corner with the letters 'GA' scratched on the rock.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the tricky polished corner then make a move rightwards onto a slab. Climb this and continue up a crack, or the wall to the left, to the top of the rib.
2) 12m. Walk/scramble easily up left to the base of a long groove with a roof at half-height.
3) 50m. Climb cracks on the right-hand side of the groove past the roof, then step left into the smaller continuation groove which leads to a ledge. Belay on the next ledge a little higher.
4) 30m. Scramble up right to a path and walk along this to the base of a rib and the letters 'GA' on the rock again.
5) 4a, 50m. Start on the right of the rib and climb up and leftwards to gain the groove above. Follow this until a step left gains a steeper continuation-groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty until a move leftwards gains The Haven - a good ledge, block belay well back.
6) 20m. The infamous Knight's Move pitch. How's your chess? Climb the crack behind the belay to reach the chessboard slab above. Exit this slab by the top right corner, step round the arete to find a comfortable stance.
7) 20m. Romp up the corner above the belay to reach a good stance. An escape rightwards from here is easy if the weather is bad or darkness is closing in.
8) 25m. Head a little way right and climb the steep rock to a rib. Follow this to an ever-easing finish.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, A grand easy welsh day out, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, CUMC Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Ogwen 1000, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Big Easys, High Quality Adventure routes, Snowdonia in Chains, Big Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, The Long Routes, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, University of Exeter must tick's, Going Up Rocks, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Ogwen, Mountain Rock, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 2020/21 Trips, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round, Hard Rock & Other Classics, Climbs I want do next, North Wales!!, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge, Rock Stars Trad Routes, Wales with M, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

Feedback

User Date Notes
Abi_Davies 18 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Harder than expected because of the polished rock. Had to bail on the last pitch (pitch 8) because the sun was going down despite starting in the morning. There was a lot of waiting around because of several groups climbing the route at the same time. I would start as early as possible, unless climbing in the summer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than expected because of the polished rock. Had to bail on the last pitch (pitch 8) because the sun was going down despite starting in the morning. There was a lot of waiting around because of several groups climbing the route at the same time. I would start as early as possible, unless climbing in the summer.
Itsthegasman 16 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Great route, some amazing positions higher up. Polish was tricky on pitch 3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, some amazing positions higher up. Polish was tricky on pitch 3.
simon snowdon 25 Sep Show βeta
βeta: A great route once we’d found the start.. easy enough to climb as a three as we did
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route once we’d found the start.. easy enough to climb as a three as we did
DylanDesachJones 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: care needed with very loose rocks near top of pitch 8 (last pitch)
Show beta
βeta: care needed with very loose rocks near top of pitch 8 (last pitch)
Cameron3298 21 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Extremely polished still excellent climbing easy pro, soled a couple of pitches felt worth it :)
βeta?
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βeta: Extremely polished still excellent climbing easy pro, soled a couple of pitches felt worth it :)
Sasha.kitching 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: just combine pitch 1 and 2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: just combine pitch 1 and 2
liamhughes1981 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don't forget pitch 8! Pitch 7 spits you pretty much onto the path skirting round Tryfan but there is another pitch after this up the boulder and ridge above the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't forget pitch 8! Pitch 7 spits you pretty much onto the path skirting round Tryfan but there is another pitch after this up the boulder and ridge above the belay.
DJF 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Belay after checkerboard/ knights move is a difficult place to be with traffic. Try and check it's clear before getting on to the slab.
Show beta
βeta: Belay after checkerboard/ knights move is a difficult place to be with traffic. Try and check it's clear before getting on to the slab.
odari 16 Aug, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: In the older Ogwen guide the description of 6 and 7th pitch is totally misleading. UKC description here is much clearer (and correct). Nice climb even with the polish.
Show beta
βeta: In the older Ogwen guide the description of 6 and 7th pitch is totally misleading. UKC description here is much clearer (and correct). Nice climb even with the polish.

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Votes cast 143
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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Will o' the Wisp

Grade: HVD ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))
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