UKH

45m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning line combined with airy climbing. Start directly below the arete reached by scrambling down from The Dress Circle.
1) 4b, 45m. Climb to a ledge, then take twin cracks on the arete to a small ledge. Continue to another small ledge and make some bold moves up a slab to yet another ledge. Move up to a belay below a chimney (this is the stance at the top of pitch 2 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary). Follow Eagle's Nest Ordinary from here.
2) 10m. Climb the chimney and short rib left to a stance.
3) 15m. Take a chimney on the left and follow easy ground to below a steep section of rock.
4) 40m. Climb a crack and chimney on the right to gain the low-angled ridge beyond. Move along this to the descent line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Delightful, open and delicate climbing up the steep arete at the left end of the Dress Circle. Small wires have made all the difference to this once, very bold lead. Start directly below the arete.
Steep rocks with good holds are climbed, bearing right to a ledge overlooking the Dress Circle. Climb up and left to the arete, using two parallel cracks then step up to a small platform (The Eagle's Nest) followed by another platform (The Crow's Nest) after a further 5m. Delicate moves on sloping and polished holds are made from the platform onto the slab above, which leads to Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route (top of pitch 3).

GA Solly, WC Slingsby, GP Baker, WA Brigg Apr/1892.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

Feedback

User Date Notes
LoneDeranger 7 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Ab ropes can be prone to becoming stuck at P1 ab station. Still don't really understand how, but I wasn't the first or last to have to go back up...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ab ropes can be prone to becoming stuck at P1 ab station. Still don't really understand how, but I wasn't the first or last to have to go back up...
Rog Wilko Apr, 1992 Show βeta
βeta: I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change.

Logged Ascents

267 users have logged this

Guidebooks for The Napes

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 124 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High MVS
Mid MVS
Low MVS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 42
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troutdale Pinnacle Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Black Crag (Borrowdale))

Loading Notifications...