A stunning line combined with airy climbing. Start directly below the arete reached by scrambling down from The Dress Circle.
1) 4b, 45m. Climb to a ledge, then take twin cracks on the arete to a small ledge. Continue to another small ledge and make some bold moves up a slab to yet another ledge. Move up to a belay below a chimney (this is the stance at the top of pitch 2 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary). Follow Eagle's Nest Ordinary from here.
2) 10m. Climb the chimney and short rib left to a stance.
3) 15m. Take a chimney on the left and follow easy ground to below a steep section of rock.
4) 40m. Climb a crack and chimney on the right to gain the low-angled ridge beyond. Move along this to the descent line. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Delightful, open and delicate climbing up the steep arete at the left end of the Dress Circle. Small wires have made all the difference to this once, very bold lead. Start directly below the arete.
Steep rocks with good holds are climbed, bearing right to a ledge overlooking the Dress Circle. Climb up and left to the arete, using two parallel cracks then step up to a small platform (The Eagle's Nest) followed by another platform (The Crow's Nest) after a further 5m. Delicate moves on sloping and polished holds are made from the platform onto the slab above, which leads to Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route (top of pitch 3).
GA Solly, WC Slingsby, GP Baker, WA Brigg Apr/1892.
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