Rockfax Description
An all-time classic. Climb the arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then grope up for good jams. Swiftly get established on the final wall then finish easily. © Rockfax
FA. Barry Webb 1964.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 23 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: The 'better than expected' jams at the end of the traverse are ABOVE the lip, in balance and there's good cams there too. Don't hang about below the lip, expecting the crux to be getting over it! | ||
Show beta
βeta: The 'better than expected' jams at the end of the traverse are ABOVE the lip, in balance and there's good cams there too. Don't hang about below the lip, expecting the crux to be getting over it! |
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Ariegeois | 22 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth! |
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Ben Rowland | 28 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand. | ||
Show beta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand. |
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Jus | 13 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done. | ||
Show beta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done. |
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MeMeMe | 15 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams. |
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cem | 16 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground! |
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Garan | 10 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread. |
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stow | 22 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route. |
The route numbers of these two routes are switched. Descriptions are fine but Tippler is route 5 line and Paranoid breaks right along the lip as indicated by the route 6 line.
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)