UKH

18m.

Rockfax Description
An all-time classic. Climb the arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then grope up for good jams. Swiftly get established on the final wall then finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Barry Webb 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme 2018 , Stanage Popular , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Big Boy Pants , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ariegeois 22 Nov Show βeta
βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth!
Ben Rowland 28 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand.
Show beta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand.
Jus 13 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done.
Show beta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done.
MeMeMe 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams.
Show beta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams.
cem 16 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground!
Garan 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread.
stow 22 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route.
Show beta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route.

Logged Ascents

1258 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Guidebook Correction

Eastern Grit (2015)

Rockfax Corrections
26 Nov, 2021

The route numbers of these two routes are switched. Descriptions are fine but Tippler is route 5 line and Paranoid breaks right along the lip as indicated by the route 6 line.

375 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 185
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 180
Votes cast 166
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Interstate Direct Start

Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

Loading Notifications...