Rockfax Description
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at f6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short climbers). Swing left then gain a standing position in the break with difficulty. The upper section then follows the thin crack and gradually eases. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Wishlist , Extreme 2018 , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , E1's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Joe Costello | 14 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta | βeta? | |
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βeta: When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta |
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| Joe Costello | 14 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list. |
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| Fiend | 26 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack. |
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| Alex Mason | 9 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style! | ||
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βeta: yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style! |
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| JR | 6 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft | βeta? | |
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βeta: definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft |
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| GDes | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a | βeta? | |
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βeta: i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break! | ||
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βeta: Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break! |
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| The Pylon King | 27 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: Wicked! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wicked! |
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| laaljohn | 9 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-( | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-( |
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Logged Ascents
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Todycade
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)