Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
A stiff problem. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor cam) using tiny holds away on the right and a scary slap for the break. The upper part is easier though reachy. It is possible to climb left of the arete at about E2 with a side-runner. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973.

Ticklists

Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
James Smith 17 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a 0.1 (small red) cam right at the back of where the 1 (red) goes at the start of the arete. Neither are brilliant but I think if placed well they would hold a fall though I didn\'t test that in anger!
Show beta
βeta: There is a 0.1 (small red) cam right at the back of where the 1 (red) goes at the start of the arete. Neither are brilliant but I think if placed well they would hold a fall though I didn't test that in anger!
Jakewilson89 8 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The marginal cam ripped for me, bounced off the starting block and broke 2 vertebrae. Would spend some time fiddling with RPs or bring a few pads to back up the cam next time.
Show beta
βeta: The marginal cam ripped for me, bounced off the starting block and broke 2 vertebrae. Would spend some time fiddling with RPs or bring a few pads to back up the cam next time.
TomYoung 23 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Red cam in the break protected my slumps trying to go for the crimp quite well, better than it looks.
Show beta
βeta: Red cam in the break protected my slumps trying to go for the crimp quite well, better than it looks.
Toby Dunn 25 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too.
Nige M 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fern Hill Indirect

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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