Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The corner system tucked in the right side of the gully - an imposing pitch. Bridge the initial groove to ledges then take the steep but easier upper section to escape under the chockstone. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
AdeWard 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky little squirmy route, great fun but green as hell! The cleverly and wisely placed thread early on boosts confidence.
βeta?
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βeta: Tricky little squirmy route, great fun but green as hell! The cleverly and wisely placed thread early on boosts confidence.
JohnHutch 8 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Utterly baffling. How do you get more than a meter up it?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Utterly baffling. How do you get more than a meter up it?
eduardo 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, worth the effort, much different in character to most stange vs climbs.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice route, worth the effort, much different in character to most stange vs climbs.

Logged Ascents

108 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 10
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Birch Tree Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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