There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1950-51.
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Brown & Whillans Stanage , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stan , On Peak Rock , Severe Stanage , Proper Cracks UK , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pete McGlynn | 6 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Finished on right side of arête. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Finished on right side of arête. |
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Fraser kid | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point! |
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Mark Stevenson | 30 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!). | ||
Show beta
βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!). |
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bone | 2 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Eastwood Rocks)