Rockfax Description
A full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1950-51.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Brown & Whillans Stanage , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stan , On Peak Rock , Severe Stanage , Proper Cracks UK , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pete McGlynn | 6 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Finished on right side of arête. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Finished on right side of arête. |
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| Fraser kid | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point! |
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| Mark Stevenson | 30 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!). |
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| bone | 2 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove. |
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Tody's Wall
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)