There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete. Climb to the break then traverse left to gain the superb finishing flake. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stanage HVS Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Cake | 13 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: This wonderful route is gradually ageing. I was reluctant to put gear in either flake | βeta? | |
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βeta: This wonderful route is gradually ageing. I was reluctant to put gear in either flake |
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Ropeboy | 22 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Found this harder than the Direct! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found this harder than the Direct! |
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Si dH | 12 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle. |
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leon | 28 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest |
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thebigfriendlymoose | 28 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb. |
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Albie | 2 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Laddow)