There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. An odd sideways nut protects the moves up and right to the base of the superb upper flake. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1956.
Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Work Hard, Play Hard , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 50 of the Best , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Memorable Climbs , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Extreme 2018 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Peaks hard stuff , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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benjied | 20 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Having not had any beta before setting off, didn’t take enough big wires for that sideways nut to be on, having also skipped gear in the flake cos I didn’t want to damage it the essentially solo moves to reach the jugs felt pretty e2, but if it is good probs easier than a lot of stanage e1s. Looks very worn though. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Having not had any beta before setting off, didn’t take enough big wires for that sideways nut to be on, having also skipped gear in the flake cos I didn’t want to damage it the essentially solo moves to reach the jugs felt pretty e2, but if it is good probs easier than a lot of stanage e1s. Looks very worn though. |
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Richard 261 | 2 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Only my second E2. I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice. The flake system at the top is real fun. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Only my second E2. I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice. The flake system at the top is real fun. |
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Jon Greengrass | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height. |
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Alex Mason | 18 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there |
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Ropeboy | 23 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have to agree, very soft touch E2. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I have to agree, very soft touch E2. |
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chris sm | 18 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route. |
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Tyler | 24 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic |
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The Pylon King | 6 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 23 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV. | ||
Show beta
βeta: My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Curbar Edge)