Loading Notifications...
22m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. An odd sideways nut protects the moves up and right to the base of the superb upper flake. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956.

Ticklists

Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Work Hard, Play Hard, Ultimate E2 ticklist, 50 of the Best, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Memorable Climbs, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Extreme 2018, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Peaks hard stuff, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
benjied 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Having not had any beta before setting off, didn’t take enough big wires for that sideways nut to be on, having also skipped gear in the flake cos I didn’t want to damage it the essentially solo moves to reach the jugs felt pretty e2, but if it is good probs easier than a lot of stanage e1s. Looks very worn though.
 
Show beta
βeta: Having not had any beta before setting off, didn’t take enough big wires for that sideways nut to be on, having also skipped gear in the flake cos I didn’t want to damage it the essentially solo moves to reach the jugs felt pretty e2, but if it is good probs easier than a lot of stanage e1s. Looks very worn though.
Richard 261 2 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Only my second E2. I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice. The flake system at the top is real fun.
 
Show beta
βeta: Only my second E2. I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice. The flake system at the top is real fun.
Jon Greengrass 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height.
Alex Mason 18 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there
Ropeboy 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I have to agree, very soft touch E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have to agree, very soft touch E2.
chris sm 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route.
Tyler 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic
Mark S Davies 6 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS.
Nick Smith - Climbers 23 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV.
 
Show beta
βeta: My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV.

Logged Ascents

870 users have logged this
153 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 159
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 154
Votes cast 147
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Five Finger Exercise

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)