Rockfax Description
The leaning crack is jammed to a poor rest at the break. Build a bomb-shelter then make the crucial precarious layback moves up and left to reach a ladder of jugs. A great contender for your first grit E1, and this one won't be down-graded. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown Apr/1949.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Eastern Grit Jamming , The Peak: Past and Present , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Plantation , Classic Lobs , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , York University Students path to greatness , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 2021 Ticklist , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Ones to smash out! , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Dewimpification , The Eal List , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , Top 25 routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gspot | 22 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: At the crux, pocket to the right takes two fingers and is much more usable than looks from below. Frees up the left hand to reach up higher. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: At the crux, pocket to the right takes two fingers and is much more usable than looks from below. Frees up the left hand to reach up higher. |
||||
| Ben Rowland | 7 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice, learning to jam helped, barn door move was fun:)) | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice, learning to jam helped, barn door move was fun:)) |
||||
| Blake | 4 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: These routes are looking a bit ruined now to me. Damaged cam placements, sugary damaged grit and polish. Queues of people taking repeated lobs of them both like indoor sport routes. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: These routes are looking a bit ruined now to me. Damaged cam placements, sugary damaged grit and polish. Queues of people taking repeated lobs of them both like indoor sport routes. |
||||
| Pythonist | 6 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right. |
||||
| ericinbristol | 23 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic |
||||
| ian bryant | 2 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Todycade
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)