UKH

12m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete of the buttress is bold and high in the grade. Climb the thin crack to the arete then balance round left and finish direct. The big black flake right of the arete and close to the crux is hollow and not a great spot to place runners. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen early 1970s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Stanage Plantation, Stanage HVS Challenge, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1

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User Date Notes
leon 17 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it. you need to hunt for the holds at the top out.
βeta?
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βeta: it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it. you need to hunt for the holds at the top out.
MeMeMe 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade? Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade? Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice.
Stefan Kruger 17 Jan, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 83
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 75
Style of Ascent
Lead
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Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest

Great Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)
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