Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Bold and high in the grade. Climb the thin crack to the arete then balance round left and finish direct. The big black flake right of the arete is hollow and not a great spot to place runners. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen early 1970s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Stanage Plantation , Stanage HVS Challenge , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
leon 17 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it. you need to hunt for the holds at the top out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it. you need to hunt for the holds at the top out.
MeMeMe 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade? Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade? Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice.
Stefan Kruger 17 Jan, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 89
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Route

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)

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