Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand arete of the central cave to ledges, then the thin crack (poor small wires) to a bolder exit. Finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Mithen 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage HVS Challenge , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
jimbonfire 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure why this is E1… HVS is correct, plenty of gear and very short-lived crux moves
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure why this is E1… HVS is correct, plenty of gear and very short-lived crux moves
lithos 14 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: number 2 superlight is bomber high in the crack by crux, 4 offset at bottom of crack and other small wires in the middle
Show beta
βeta: number 2 superlight is bomber high in the crack by crux, 4 offset at bottom of crack and other small wires in the middle
Fiend 24 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like the vote distinctly place this between HVS and E1...hmmm... Quite a tricky little number. There is one great wire placement where you need it, thankfully, as the move to get past it is pretty poky. Not to be sniffed at.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like the vote distinctly place this between HVS and E1...hmmm... Quite a tricky little number. There is one great wire placement where you need it, thankfully, as the move to get past it is pretty poky. Not to be sniffed at.
Jus 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Needs a reachy symbol... HVS 5b if you can reach the crucial holds. Dodgy gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs a reachy symbol... HVS 5b if you can reach the crucial holds. Dodgy gear.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 60
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Continent

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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