There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb right of the arete to the ledge of Right-hand Tower. The original finish is left of the nose using a small flake (E2 5c) but topping out as for Right-hand Tower is more in keeping. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1995.
2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 13 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The description is a bit bollox really. This clearly climbs the right hand side of the arete up an obvious direct line. Lots of good gear from all sorts of cams, moves are a bit bland though apart from the finish. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The description is a bit bollox really. This clearly climbs the right hand side of the arete up an obvious direct line. Lots of good gear from all sorts of cams, moves are a bit bland though apart from the finish. |
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Michael Simpson | 14 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: you can finish on the arete and avoid the original 5c E2 finish and the finish of Right hand tower and get an award for splitting hairs! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: you can finish on the arete and avoid the original 5c E2 finish and the finish of Right hand tower and get an award for splitting hairs! |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The finish as given in the ROCKFAX topo (on the left of the arete) is nails - 5c crimps followed by a tricky mantelshelf, well above your gear. Probably only E1 5b if you finish direct, on the right of the arete. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The finish as given in the ROCKFAX topo (on the left of the arete) is nails - 5c crimps followed by a tricky mantelshelf, well above your gear. Probably only E1 5b if you finish direct, on the right of the arete. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 23 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not a well protected start from a good break and pocket (where are the other pockets??). Great slopey fun - take some big cams! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not a well protected start from a good break and pocket (where are the other pockets??). Great slopey fun - take some big cams! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)