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16m.

Rockfax Description
A rounded classic that used to be given VS. Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the final break. Move right round the arete to find a precarious final couple of moves. Can be well protected with large cams. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist, Stanage HVS Challenge, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
craig.england1 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Lots of cams required
 
Show beta
βeta: Lots of cams required
fenclimb 24 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes.
Si dH 19 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams.
βeta?
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βeta: I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams.
leon 17 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a
βeta?
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βeta: wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a
Alex Mason 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top
gav p 25 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS.
Stefan Kruger 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge.
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 114
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 111
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Neb Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)