Rockfax Description
Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the final break. Move right round the arete to find a precarious final couple of moves. Can be well protected with large cams. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| craig.england1 | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Lots of cams required | ||
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βeta: Lots of cams required |
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| fenclimb | 24 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes. |
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| Si dH | 19 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams. |
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| leon | 17 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a |
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| Alex Mason | 20 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top |
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| gav p | 25 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS. |
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| Stefan Kruger | 7 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Neb Buttress Direct
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)