Rockfax Description
An intricate line combined with superb positions and rock. The second pitch is bold. Start at a small slab that is below a crack with a twisted tree root in it.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb the slab and crack to a stance.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the groove left of the black corner and after 5m, as it narrows, move left around the arete to a slab. Climb diagonally up left (little protection) to a belay on the edge of the slab at an overlap.
3) 4b, 20m. Move up the overlaps on the arete and then head rightwards up a crack-line to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , UK Lonely Leads , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 14 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: A very enjoyable route, with a range of gear available on p.2 for those who have a good range of gear on their rack. I got a three-piece nest before following the good holds left and up to the belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A very enjoyable route, with a range of gear available on p.2 for those who have a good range of gear on their rack. I got a three-piece nest before following the good holds left and up to the belay. |
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| bigredsquirrel | 1 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: P1 looked damp, but above the first stance it looked dry enough. How wrong we were! P2 (the traverse) was greasy and horrible! P3 not so bad if slightly damp. Would be much easier if fully dry! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P1 looked damp, but above the first stance it looked dry enough. How wrong we were! P2 (the traverse) was greasy and horrible! P3 not so bad if slightly damp. Would be much easier if fully dry! |
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| 1-2-3-40 | 22 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Micro cams protect the traverse pitch 2, and look left for a red cam placement for the wall to the belay. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Micro cams protect the traverse pitch 2, and look left for a red cam placement for the wall to the belay. |
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| sam_owen41 | 23 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slab on second pitch is thin on gear | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Slab on second pitch is thin on gear |
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| Lucylou19 | 23 Jun, 2016 |
Show βeta
βeta: led pitch 1 and 2. pitch 2 would be bold without a 00 cam as soon as you step out of the groove (virtually). Traverse takes a no 2 nut which may protect a lead fall but makes the second a lot safer. felt cruisy tho, stoke! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: led pitch 1 and 2. pitch 2 would be bold without a 00 cam as soon as you step out of the groove (virtually). Traverse takes a no 2 nut which may protect a lead fall but makes the second a lot safer. felt cruisy tho, stoke! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag
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Rake End Wall
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Pavey Ark)