Rockfax Description
A lesson in adventure on a route with a fearful name and reputation gives a sensational trip onto the Sanctuary Wall at a reasonable grade. Start at the notch on the landward side of the Sanctuary Wall.
1) 5b, 9m. From the notch, step down over the void, and make a tricky move left onto an easier ramp. Follow this a short way, peg, to an exposed ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Take the corner above and pass the overhang on the left via a steep layback. Easier climbing gains the top. Nuts and an iron spike just below the ridge. © Rockfax
P Littlejohn, P Biven (AL) 30/Mar/1968.
West Country Climbs , Moving to Devon , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Cream first!
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Haytor)