Rockfax Description
This combination of the best of two lines gives a technical and exhilarating climb not to be missed. Start at a blank wall with a hand-ledge at head height. Make a hard move to get established on the hand-ledge, from where some stretchy moves gain a jug and then the horizontal break. Climb the leftward trending line of overhanging flakes above to a final heave over the last bulge to easier ground. The upper flake has had its end broken off and made this section harder, however the grade is still the same as in the past. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A much straighter line than either of the originals, brilliant climbing too. Start up letterbox wall and enter right slanting crack (consider a bouldering mat) to the break. Continue steeply, on large holds, until a tricky reach to top out. Bolder and harder than it used to be due to flakes breaking off though still excellent.
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jim blackford | 30 May, 2020 |
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βeta: The flakes where you have to place gear are loose in places. Be careful what you place or better place lots in different places. Still a good route | βeta? | |
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βeta: The flakes where you have to place gear are loose in places. Be careful what you place or better place lots in different places. Still a good route |
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mountaingoatgirl | 9 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: This route is being re-graded due to broken flakes. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is being re-graded due to broken flakes. |
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ClimbingWolf | 19 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Broken flake about 9m up, ups the grade a bit! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Broken flake about 9m up, ups the grade a bit! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)