South Devon

South Devon cover photo
Author Pete Saunders
Published The Climbers Club (2018)
ISBN 978-0-957281-57-8

Review

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years.

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years. Now THE comprehensive guide to climbing in South Devon; with details of 74 crags and over 1800 routes, including recent developments.


Crags covered by this Guide
Devon crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Anstey's Cove 232 Limestone S
Ash Hole 29 Limestone N
Ausewell Rocks 21 Quartzite S
Babbacombe Crags 98 Limestone NE
Bantham Hand 6 Shale all
Battery Gardens 17 Limestone all
Beer Head 2 Chalk S
Beesands 33 Schist all
Berry Head - Coastguard Cliffs 184 Limestone S
Berry Head - The Old Redoubt 132 Limestone E
Berry Head Quarry 85 Limestone N
Black Crag 14 Limestone NW
Black Head 25 Limestone E
Bolt Tail 25 Schist W
Broadbridge Quarry 7 Limestone SW
Broadsands Beach 1 Limestone E
Buckfastleigh 5 Limestone NE
Chapel Hill 13 Limestone W
Chipley Quarry 11 Pillow lava SW
Chudleigh Rocks - North Face 68 Limestone N
Chudleigh Rocks - South Face 221 Limestone S
Churston Cove 23 Limestone SE
Churston Quarries 71 Limestone N
Cliff Road Crag 25 Limestone S
Cod Rock 10 Limestone all
Cove Quarry 18 Shale S
Cradle Rock Buttress 22 Limestone E
Daddyhole Main Cliff 54 Limestone E
Daddyhole Upper Cliff 105 Limestone S
Durl Head 42 Limestone all
Elender Cove 13 Schist S
Gammon Head 12 Schist S
Hazard Quarry 45 Limestone S
Hazel Tor 6 Mica schist all
Hexton Quarry 6 Limestone S
Holcombe Area 4 Sandstone (soft) SE
Hope Cove 2 Shale S
Hope's Nose 83 Limestone W
Kerswell Quarry 3 Limestone N
Ladram Bay Stacks 9 Sandstone (soft) all
Landcombe Cove 33 Slate SE
Leigh Tor 42 Quartzite all
London Bridge 43 Limestone all
Long Quarry Point 102 Limestone E
Meadfoot Quarry 26 Limestone SE
Morwell Rocks 40 Slate W
Mount Batten 3 Limestone N
Petit Tor Point 44 Limestone E
Pig's Nose Beach 25 Schist all
Pilchard Cove 10 Slate S
Plimsoll Line Cliff 14 Limestone S
Plymouth Hoe 88 Limestone S
Prawle Point 22 Schist S
Radford Quarry 14 Limestone S
Richmond Walk 14 Limestone E
Saddle Point 7 Limestone SW
Sanctuary Wall 33 Limestone S
Sandy Bay 4 Sandstone (soft) W
Sharkham Point and St. Marys Bay 38 Basalt NE
Sharp Tor 11 Schist all
Shoalstone Beach 71 Limestone N
St. Anchorites Rock 9 Dolerite all
Steeple Cove 3 Schist S
Telegraph Hole 39 Limestone SE
Thurlstone Rock 1 Conglomerate all
Torbryan Quarry 46 Limestone W
Torcross Boulders 38 Slate all

Add Guidebook Correction
Martgib
15 Aug, 2022

Topo is incorrect in guidebook, line goes up same face as Muscle Farm (the right facing headwall).

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