UKH

10m.

Rockfax Description
The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to psych up for the tricky mantelshelf finale. © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1975.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, On Peak Rock, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jmpollard 11 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Stepped fully onto the rest ledge out right, means you can reach some small holds up and right making the move rocking up into the scoop a dream rather than a lanky nightmare.
Show beta
βeta: Stepped fully onto the rest ledge out right, means you can reach some small holds up and right making the move rocking up into the scoop a dream rather than a lanky nightmare.
Aly 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me.
UKB Shark 6 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went.
Ricardo 13 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting.
mark s 27 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a

Logged Ascents

124 users have logged this
56 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 32
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Swan

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)
Loading Notifications...