Rockfax Description
A great classic featuring fine climbing and good protection. At the lowest toe of the pinnacle, climb a wide crack (often damp) to ledges then the wall trending left via a series of finger-cracks. Finish up the rickety flake with care. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew 1963.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , 50 of the Best , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Adele & Dave , Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak District Pinnacles , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| milanboez | 18 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: First try on the start crack didn't work out so climbed back down - different approach second time and all was well. Took me an age to move into the crux - by far the most insecure and committing series of foot moves I've done. The flake is spooky. Run out at the top because of it. Brilliant route and very much felt HVS (glad it wasn't my first!) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First try on the start crack didn't work out so climbed back down - different approach second time and all was well. Took me an age to move into the crux - by far the most insecure and committing series of foot moves I've done. The flake is spooky. Run out at the top because of it. Brilliant route and very much felt HVS (glad it wasn't my first!) |
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| olddirtydoggy | 15 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not the scary monster we thought it was. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not the scary monster we thought it was. |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: first hvs found it very balancy like most and as i streatched left for the flake had to let go with my right hand. when on the lower ledge thrust gear into the back in a spot of panic which is not a good place to put it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: first hvs found it very balancy like most and as i streatched left for the flake had to let go with my right hand. when on the lower ledge thrust gear into the back in a spot of panic which is not a good place to put it |
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| JohnHutch | 3 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous route. Finally led it this year after following it several times. Startled by a lot of hissing from indignant creature (baby bird? I couldn't see) deep in the crack leading to the ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fabulous route. Finally led it this year after following it several times. Startled by a lot of hissing from indignant creature (baby bird? I couldn't see) deep in the crack leading to the ledge. |
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| craigswoods | 31 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome route! |
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| leon | 30 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: i was surprised at how balancy this route was. another rivlin hvs classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: i was surprised at how balancy this route was. another rivlin hvs classic |
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| mat_galvin | 17 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Very technical with a lot of balancy 'working out' of moves whilst below or level with good gear. Worth sorting out some pro before the final push to the top from the ledge | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route. Very technical with a lot of balancy 'working out' of moves whilst below or level with good gear. Worth sorting out some pro before the final push to the top from the ledge |
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| Tyler | 10 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The rickety flake sounds and feels very fragile, considerable care required (or someone needs to prise it off) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The rickety flake sounds and feels very fragile, considerable care required (or someone needs to prise it off) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge
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Lyons Corner House
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)