Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A great classic featuring fine climbing and good protection. At the lowest toe of the pinnacle, climb a wide crack (often damp) to ledges then the wall trending left via a series of finger-cracks. Finish up the rickety flake with care. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , 50 of the Best , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Adele & Dave , Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak District Pinnacles , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 18 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First try on the start crack didn't work out so climbed back down - different approach second time and all was well. Took me an age to move into the crux - by far the most insecure and committing series of foot moves I've done. The flake is spooky. Run out at the top because of it. Brilliant route and very much felt HVS (glad it wasn't my first!)
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βeta: First try on the start crack didn't work out so climbed back down - different approach second time and all was well. Took me an age to move into the crux - by far the most insecure and committing series of foot moves I've done. The flake is spooky. Run out at the top because of it. Brilliant route and very much felt HVS (glad it wasn't my first!)
olddirtydoggy 15 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not the scary monster we thought it was.
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βeta: Not the scary monster we thought it was.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: first hvs found it very balancy like most and as i streatched left for the flake had to let go with my right hand. when on the lower ledge thrust gear into the back in a spot of panic which is not a good place to put it
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βeta: first hvs found it very balancy like most and as i streatched left for the flake had to let go with my right hand. when on the lower ledge thrust gear into the back in a spot of panic which is not a good place to put it
JohnHutch 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous route. Finally led it this year after following it several times. Startled by a lot of hissing from indignant creature (baby bird? I couldn't see) deep in the crack leading to the ledge.
βeta?
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βeta: Fabulous route. Finally led it this year after following it several times. Startled by a lot of hissing from indignant creature (baby bird? I couldn't see) deep in the crack leading to the ledge.
craigswoods 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route!
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βeta: Awesome route!
leon 30 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i was surprised at how balancy this route was. another rivlin hvs classic
βeta?
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βeta: i was surprised at how balancy this route was. another rivlin hvs classic
mat_galvin 17 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Very technical with a lot of balancy 'working out' of moves whilst below or level with good gear. Worth sorting out some pro before the final push to the top from the ledge
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βeta: Great route. Very technical with a lot of balancy 'working out' of moves whilst below or level with good gear. Worth sorting out some pro before the final push to the top from the ledge
Tyler 10 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The rickety flake sounds and feels very fragile, considerable care required (or someone needs to prise it off)
βeta?
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βeta: The rickety flake sounds and feels very fragile, considerable care required (or someone needs to prise it off)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 379
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 366
Votes cast 365
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Knight's Move

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage North)

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