Rockfax Description
A fine expedition up the left edge of the bay. A short groove (4b) leads into the cave. Head up the corner to the roof then traverse to the left arete and make difficult moves round to a narrow ledge. The leaning wall just to the left leads awkwardly to a rest and a finish up the superbly positioned final arete. © Rockfax
FAA. Kit Twyford, George Leaver 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Millstone HVS's , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Millstone * HVS In a day , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Millstone Edge , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Jem's Time in the Peaks , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , HVS Wishlist , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| sheffieldchris | 29 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: top climb with a bit of everything in it. the move out of the cave is the bottle crux, but think the move off the higher small ledge is the tecnical crux stood there thinking why am i finding this bit harder bit balency onto arete | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: top climb with a bit of everything in it. the move out of the cave is the bottle crux, but think the move off the higher small ledge is the tecnical crux stood there thinking why am i finding this bit harder bit balency onto arete |
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| shaun walby | 12 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loverly enjoyable lower end HVS climbing. Just a tad tricky round the lip to the ledge then very steady to the top, well protected. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loverly enjoyable lower end HVS climbing. Just a tad tricky round the lip to the ledge then very steady to the top, well protected. |
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| Gripped | 8 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable moves, a nice airy arete and a compact/solid top out (A rarity for Millstone!). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable moves, a nice airy arete and a compact/solid top out (A rarity for Millstone!). |
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| James B | 2 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first HVS lead so I'm biased! But it's very varied, a good but scary move coming out of the cave, nice face/arete climbing after. And it's one of the few Millstone climbs that isn't s*dding crack-jamming | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: My first HVS lead so I'm biased! But it's very varied, a good but scary move coming out of the cave, nice face/arete climbing after. And it's one of the few Millstone climbs that isn't s*dding crack-jamming |
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| Albie | 2 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is definately the move coming out of the cave - place your gear as far out as you can then don't stop moving until you've got to the ledge. This climb has a great variety of moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is definately the move coming out of the cave - place your gear as far out as you can then don't stop moving until you've got to the ledge. This climb has a great variety of moves. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Bond Street
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)