No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
A great route though overshadowed by The Sun.
1) 5c, 15m. Follow Warpath until you are established on the hourglass. Climb this until you are stood on good holds. Make a move down and left into a groove and climb this to a bulge. Exciting moves through the bulge gain a good ledge with a belay towards its back, to the left of the crack of the second pitch.
2) 5c, 15m. Move into the crack and follow it to a step right to the continuation and follow it to the top. A low start is possible, giving one long pitch from the boulder beach.
FA P.Williams, T.Jadwat 19.5.1984 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Can be climbed as an excellent single pitch from directly below.
1) 5c, 30m. Follow Warpath until you are established on the red hourglass. Pull steeply into the shallow white groove on jugs and climb this to a bulge. Exciting moves through the bulge gain a good ledge. Move into the obvious thin crack and follow it, with a step right (crux) to the continuation and follow it to the top.
Featured in Channel 4 programme Wondrous Wales, Season 2, Episode 1: https://www.channel4.com/programmes/wondrous-wales/on-demand/71721-004
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Preparation for the Resurrection
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
LucaC | 3 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo better than The Sun | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo better than The Sun |
||||
George_Surf | 11 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach! |
||||
Keith_Scarlett | 1 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I don't know why you'd do it in 2 pitches, no issues with rope drag or length when done in 1 pitch and you can stretch out, relax at the pitch 1 belay if you do want a breather before getting into the headwall. | ||
Show beta
βeta: I don't know why you'd do it in 2 pitches, no issues with rope drag or length when done in 1 pitch and you can stretch out, relax at the pitch 1 belay if you do want a breather before getting into the headwall. |
||||
joeramsay | 30 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Better than the sun. Shitty scramble to the little queenie belay can be avoided by starting from a little ledge on the bands of rock directly below the hourglass, might even make for a better pitch anyway | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Better than the sun. Shitty scramble to the little queenie belay can be avoided by starting from a little ledge on the bands of rock directly below the hourglass, might even make for a better pitch anyway |
||||
Simon King | 8 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do it as a single pitch; brilliant and then worth 3*s? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Do it as a single pitch; brilliant and then worth 3*s? |
||||
Mark Warnett | Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Andy led P1. I was spooked on this for some reason, but once committed into the headwall crack it was fine, with good gear, manageable pump and brilliant position. Very satisfying climbing too. Finished it off with a walk down the headland, then great night in the pub. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Andy led P1. I was spooked on this for some reason, but once committed into the headwall crack it was fine, with good gear, manageable pump and brilliant position. Very satisfying climbing too. Finished it off with a walk down the headland, then great night in the pub. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)