No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Good positions. Start from the right-hand end of the grass ledge by some flakes. Go up on positive holds - not much gear - to a hanging slab. Follow the slab towards a compact ledge. Climb up right to a bigger ledge. Layback gingerly up a suspect flake to the top of a pinnacle. Move left and go up to the horizontal crack/roof. Traverse left below this and up the groove on the left side of the roof to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)