Rockfax Description
A stiff little pitch, which is a popular route of its grade (i.e. it is an easy E5 ). The headwall is thin, technical and sustained but only short. Start at the block belay below Little Queenie. Traverse right to where you are forced to step down into steeper territory, move right for a few metres until below a hanging groove. Make difficult moves up into the groove and follow the hourglass slab up and right to its end below a good undercut and a steep headwall. Getting established on the headwall is hard. Above is sustained climbing on well-spaced crimps to a rest on a small ledge on the right arete. Above, the climbing eases considerable and leads up and slightly left to the top. Belay well back. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, 30 For My 30s, Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Wales Ticklist, Soft Touches
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DeanB | 22 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again. |
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Logged Ascents
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Ramadan
Grade: E5 6b ***(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)