UKH Hills - 'Warpath'

Rockfax Description
A stiff pitch, which is a popular route of its grade (i.e. an easy E5 ). The headwall is thin, technical and sustained but only short. Start at the block belay below Little Queenie. Traverse right to where you are forced to step down into steeper territory. Move right until below a hanging groove. Make difficult moves up into the groove and follow the hourglass slab up right to its end below a good undercut and a steep headwall. Getting established on the headwall is hard. Above, sustained climbing on well-spaced crimps leads to a rest on a small ledge on the right arete. The climbing eases considerably and leads up and slightly left to the top. Belay well back. A low start is possible, giving one long single pitch from the boulder beach. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , 30 For My 30s , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Soft Touches , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

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User	Date
George_Surf	11 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach!
Show beta βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach!
DeanB	22 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again.
Show beta βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again.