Rockfax Description
Remarkably sustained climbing in ever more exposed situations on the very prow of the buttress make for a memorable experience. Start at a small gravel ledge reached via a long rising traverse across scree and small grassy ledges, beginning 70m up the path from the Woolworth Boulder.
1) 10m. Follow a narrow rib of clean rock and then grass ledges to a belay in the base of a V-shaped bay.
2) 12m. Take the left-hand crack until a thin horizontal crack on the left wall at 7m can be used to gain the arete. Take the face just left of the arete to a good ledge and block belay.
3) 22m. Climb the chimney/crack above past a steepening, from where easier climbing rightwards gains a stance in a corner.
4) 20m. Difficult hand jamming up the corner-crack leads to easier blocky ground. Move up and right to a small pinnacle and belay on the edge of the buttress.
5) 12m. Head up leftwards and then back right to a good ledge and belay below a short corner.
6) 10m. Move up the short corner to a ledge. Continue up the chockstone filled chimney until a move left gains a ledge and awkward belay.
7) 12m. Head left along the narrow ledge and move around the arete onto the exposed face. Climb the face to the top. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 10 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Not loose and quite good, though the VS to its right seems to take better rock throughout. However, it feels treacherous in the dripping wet! I think it's the lichen/slime... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not loose and quite good, though the VS to its right seems to take better rock throughout. However, it feels treacherous in the dripping wet! I think it's the lichen/slime... |
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Alison Cairns | 23 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Ab point in place to get off the back of Pulpit Rock. Not especially loose for a trad route of this nature. Note the description of the approach - the 'continuous grass terrace' is not visible from below, and actually comes in from high on the right (looking at the crag) and descends to the start of the route. We scrambled from directly below, which is steep, grassy & exposed, and we ended up roping up well below the actual start. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ab point in place to get off the back of Pulpit Rock. Not especially loose for a trad route of this nature. Note the description of the approach - the 'continuous grass terrace' is not visible from below, and actually comes in from high on the right (looking at the crag) and descends to the start of the route. We scrambled from directly below, which is steep, grassy & exposed, and we ended up roping up well below the actual start. |
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annastudholme | 31 May, 2020 |
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βeta: A bit loose in places | ||
Show beta
βeta: A bit loose in places |
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Grade: HVD ***
(Castle Rock of Triermain)