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Rockfax Description
Remarkably sustained climbing in evermore exposed situations on the very prow of the buttress make for a memorable experience. Start at a small gravel ledge reached via a long rising traverse across scree and small grassy ledges, beginning 70m up the path from the Woolworth Boulder.
1) 10m. Follow a narrow rib of clean rock and then grass ledges to a belay in the base of a V-shaped bay.
2) 12m. Take the left-hand crack until a thin horizontal crack on the left wall at 7m can be used to gain the arete. Take the face just left of the arete to a good ledge and block belay.
3) 22m. Climb the chimney/crack above past a steepening, from where easier climbing rightwards gains a stance in a corner.
4) 20m. Difficult hand jamming up the corner-crack leads to easier blocky ground. Move up and right to a small pinnacle and belay on the edge of the buttress.
5) 12m. Head up leftwards and then back right to a good ledge and belay below a short corner.
6) 10m. Move up the short corner to a ledge and then up the chockstone filled chimney until a move left gains a ledge and awkward belay.
7) 12m. Head left along the narrow ledge and move around the arete onto the exposed face. Climb the face to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District, The Long Routes, "First Steps" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

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User Date Notes
annastudholme 31 May Show βeta
βeta: A bit loose in places
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βeta: A bit loose in places

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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gangway Climb

Grade: HVD ***
(Castle Rock of Triermain)