Remarkably sustained climbing in ever more exposed situations on the very prow of the buttress make for a memorable experience. Start at a small gravel ledge reached via a long rising traverse across scree and small grassy ledges, beginning 70m up the path from the Woolworth Boulder.
1) 10m. Follow a narrow rib of clean rock and then grass ledges to a belay in the base of a V-shaped bay.
2) 12m. Take the left-hand crack until a thin horizontal crack on the left wall at 7m can be used to gain the arete. Take the face just left of the arete to a good ledge and block belay.
3) 22m. Climb the chimney/crack above past a steepening, from where easier climbing rightwards gains a stance in a corner.
4) 20m. Difficult hand jamming up the corner-crack leads to easier blocky ground. Move up and right to a small pinnacle and belay on the edge of the buttress.
5) 12m. Head up leftwards and then back right to a good ledge and belay below a short corner.
6) 10m. Move up the short corner to a ledge. Continue up the chockstone filled chimney until a move left gains a ledge and awkward belay.
7) 12m. Head left along the narrow ledge and move around the arete onto the exposed face. Climb the face to the top. © Rockfax
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