22m.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest finger-cracks in the country sees many attempts and many failures. The initial leaning fissure is as hard as anything on the route (feels like 6b ) although the leftwards traverse is also taxing. Above this steady climbing leads to a reasonable rest ledge before the breathtaking final crack where many attempts flounder. An essential E5 tick. © Rockfax

FAA. Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Extreme Rock , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , London Wall Training List , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Hard Grit history , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , 50 of the Best , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , James' Winter Grit ticklist , The Road to 8a , Classic Lobs , 2019 Targets , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , Bugs training , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Crackageddon , Proper Cracks UK , Four years of university hit list , 30 For My 30s , Dream Grit Ticklist , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , UK Crack Hitlist , Sheff , Yo , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Peak E5 roundup , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Tom's crack funtimes , The Festival Of Shite , The Peg-Pocketeer , Ones to smash out! , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , R&T , Best Forgotten Art , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Best Before 2025 , Crack Fueled Rampage , Lines that inspire - E5 , Winter 23/24 , East and West Top 25 , Will's Whippers

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Hudson 12 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Mr Scott gave me a belay on the start pleased the first 3 peces then i climbed back to a ledge for a drink of water. Then scott\'s dog run off so he had to go look for him. Stood on the ledge psyched and ready to go. Dave Musgrove rocked up at the crag and said \"want a belay lad.\" Not realising who i was talking to at the time i said no. Scott will be back soon. Some 5 minuets passed and that hadn\'t happened i Decided to take Dave up on his belay offer. Doing the low crux fine i go on the traverse feeling VERRY sweaty. Some how got to the mid hight jug rested for a good 10 or so minuets then placed the final 2 peaces climbed back for a quick shake out. Then went for it hitting the top crux right hand hold building my feet up and then both feet slipped. Miraculously i held on and managed to battle my way to the top. I day i will never forget.
Show beta
βeta: Mr Scott gave me a belay on the start pleased the first 3 peces then i climbed back to a ledge for a drink of water. Then scott's dog run off so he had to go look for him. Stood on the ledge psyched and ready to go. Dave Musgrove rocked up at the crag and said "want a belay lad." Not realising who i was talking to at the time i said no. Scott will be back soon. Some 5 minuets passed and that hadn't happened i Decided to take Dave up on his belay offer. Doing the low crux fine i go on the traverse feeling VERRY sweaty. Some how got to the mid hight jug rested for a good 10 or so minuets then placed the final 2 peaces climbed back for a quick shake out. Then went for it hitting the top crux right hand hold building my feet up and then both feet slipped. Miraculously i held on and managed to battle my way to the top. I day i will never forget.
widdlestickmcpoos 28 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First go on top rope, need much thicker skin. Did all the moves but much more training needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First go on top rope, need much thicker skin. Did all the moves but much more training needed.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The bottom is quite powerful, but not quite 6b. The top section is delicate and rather hard for people with fat fingers or tired arms! 1st 2 pegs are crap.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bottom is quite powerful, but not quite 6b. The top section is delicate and rather hard for people with fat fingers or tired arms! 1st 2 pegs are crap.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Millstone Edge

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 53
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Ground Up
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Green Death

Grade: E5 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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