Restricted Access

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:

- Unrestricted (year round access)

- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August

- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September

Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted 

  • Damocles Buttress (pg 29)
  • Sunset Wall (pg 81)
  • Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South (pg 102), First Buttress North (pg 105) & Second Buttress North (pg 111)
  • Flying Buttress Main Cliff: from The Exorcist (pg 128) to Flying Dutchman (pg 136) inclusive. Access to this area must be via the steps down to the Battery. Do not walk direct across the slope above Battery Cliff/St Patrick’s Buttress. Please also take care to stay close to the edge on the easy way down to ensure nesting sea birds are not disturbed. Lundy is one of only two locations in England where Storm Petrels nest, hiding in walls when they come to land at night. This site is new and any disturbance in 2022 will lead to closure in 2023.
  • The Earthquake (pg 153)
  • Picnic Bay Cliff (pg 195)
  • The Devil’s Slide Area: Narrow Zawn (pg 243) to The Fortress (pg 278)
  • Torrey Canyon Cliff: Penitence (pg 289) to Blow Out (pg 290) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • Headline Promontory: The Column (pg 316) Margin (pg 321) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • The East Coast Quarries (pg 354-359)

Restricted 31 March - 14 August

  • Kistvaen Buttress (pg 29) to Sunset Promontory (pg 97) inclusive
  • St Patrick’s Buttress (pg 112) to Battery Cliff (pg 124) inclusive
  • Flying Buttress from Prenumbra (pg 136) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • Dihedral Zawn (pg 197) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • St John’s Stone (pg 282) to Gannet’s Buttress (pg 360) and Gannet’s Rock (pg 362) inclusive

Restricted 31 March - 15 September

  • Black Jack Zawn, Lifeboat Buttress & Jemima Buttress (pg 125)
  • Flying Buttress: Prenumbra to The Black Pig inclusive (pg 136 – 138)
  • Devil’s Tower area (pg 162) & Big Zawn (pg 208)
  • Cormorant Zawn (pg 335)
  • Storm Zawn (pg 336) & North Light Channel (pg 327)
  • Gannets’ Rock & Gannets’ Buttress (pg 354)

These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.

117m, 5 pitches. The Classic Climb of Lundy. Five pitches

.....[climbs up the slab to follow the groove in the upper part of its RHS, and then takes the obvious traverse left under the headwall - AJM]

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , My List , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Trad on every UK island , Climbs To Do On Lundy , ICAS Climbing Club , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , Lundy , High Quality Adventure routes , Libby Peter's HS Hit List , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Jack And Sophie's Super Fun Timez , 2020/21 Trips , Lundy Bird Ban VS-E3 , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , HS-HVS adventures , Dream lines , Dewimpification , Llidberis South West Tour , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , A.P's summer: England and Wales expansion pack

Feedback

User Date Notes
gaddesm 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: From the second's point of view, probably better to run the final two pitches together (particularly if you keep all the gear for the last steep bit on one rope only), you will then be in a better position to safeguard your second on the crux traverse. Beware of rogue waves on the starting ledges! We abseiled in on a falling tide, with a heavy swell, to find them dry and seemingly benign, but were caught out by two unusually large waves.
Show beta
βeta: From the second's point of view, probably better to run the final two pitches together (particularly if you keep all the gear for the last steep bit on one rope only), you will then be in a better position to safeguard your second on the crux traverse. Beware of rogue waves on the starting ledges! We abseiled in on a falling tide, with a heavy swell, to find them dry and seemingly benign, but were caught out by two unusually large waves.
Martin Southville 13 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Other groups seemed to be on the wrong line, walking the much easier right-hand edge where it's steppy. One leader even blocked others from ab'ing down by anchoring to the lowering block instead of building a belay on the route. We stayed well-in from the edge, followed the crack in the black streak and stayed inside the gently meandering white scoop as described and I think we had a better climb for it.
Show beta
βeta: Other groups seemed to be on the wrong line, walking the much easier right-hand edge where it's steppy. One leader even blocked others from ab'ing down by anchoring to the lowering block instead of building a belay on the route. We stayed well-in from the edge, followed the crack in the black streak and stayed inside the gently meandering white scoop as described and I think we had a better climb for it.
AliClimber 7 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route deserves all its stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route deserves all its stars
csd23 18 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Obligatory ascent for every Lundy trip - fantastic
Show beta
βeta: Obligatory ascent for every Lundy trip - fantastic

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lundy

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 162
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 157
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Groove

Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)

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