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Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance.1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan Cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the rightmost of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back).2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax
FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA.Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964..
The Festival Of Shite
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Grade: E3 5c ***
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