Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up.
1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan Cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme.
2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger-traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear).
An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which is now included in Party in the Park. Tackle the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © Rockfax
FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974..
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