Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up.
1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan Cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme.
2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger-traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear).
An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which is now included in Party in the Park. Tackle the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © Rockfax
FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974..
Ticklists
World Graded List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ian Parnell | 12 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bong is no more but good pro is available in the same spot | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The bong is no more but good pro is available in the same spot |
||||
| chopkins | 16 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: To Johny CV, I was the one who updated Charlie Yates details on UKC in 2005. I climbed with him at school and back in the 70’s. I can be contacted at colin.hopkins@mac.com as you haven’t given an email address. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: To Johny CV, I was the one who updated Charlie Yates details on UKC in 2005. I climbed with him at school and back in the 70’s. I can be contacted at colin.hopkins@mac.com as you haven’t given an email address. |
||||
| phatlad | 19 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yet another 3 * classic on the best crag around! OK best in the Peak then | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Yet another 3 * classic on the best crag around! OK best in the Peak then |
||||
| Alan James - Rockfax | 24 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have been informed that the real name of the first aided asensionist was Charles David Yates who styled himself as 'Charlie Halton-Yates'. Sadly he died on 7th July 1974 in a fall from the Preuss Couloir in the Dolomites at the age of 19. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I have been informed that the real name of the first aided asensionist was Charles David Yates who styled himself as 'Charlie Halton-Yates'. Sadly he died on 7th July 1974 in a fall from the Preuss Couloir in the Dolomites at the age of 19. |
||||
| simon cox | 12 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did the Phrantic Phinish which was in keeping with the rest of the route i.e. E3 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I did the Phrantic Phinish which was in keeping with the rest of the route i.e. E3 |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Archangel
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)