UKH

50m.

Rockfax Description
A gem of a route. It is best done in one pitch, but can be split either at the large break at 20m to reduce rope drag, or right of the flake almost in line with the Debauchery stance (in Perseus). Start below the prominent groove. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge. Pull through the bulge on the left and follow the crack above until a step right gains another crack. Continue past Debauchery into another groove on the left. Continue up the flake above to a position below the big old bolt and thread. Clip these then step left and tackle the left-facing groove with a stretch for the break. Finish up the steep groove. Alternatively climb past the bolt at a polished E3 6a as for Andromeda. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey in 1974. FA. Oliver Woolcock, Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1963. The current bolt was placed by Chris Craggs, nearly 20 years ago!.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The High Tor Top Ten, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade, It's "D" Day at High Tor, Classic Lobs, E is for Easy... Right?, Best of the rest and the ones that got away

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: How to climb in one pitch with 60m half ropes ("A" & "B") and belay: Once toped out you should untie and temporary secure rope "A" off at the bush near the edge, which your 2nd is tied into. Then pull up only enough rope of rope "B" to reach solid anchors a fair bit back from the cliff edge where you should untie from and attach the end of this rope to the anchor. Rope "B" ends up hanging +10m or so up the cliff so your second can't be tied into this rope. Go back to edge carefully and secure yourself ready to belay off rope "B". Using rope "A" you can then bring your 2nd up on rope "A" only until they can tie into rope "B" which should be before the first overhang. This avoids the need for a belay/faff and the route climbs much nicer in one.
 
Show beta
βeta: How to climb in one pitch with 60m half ropes ("A" & "B") and belay: Once toped out you should untie and temporary secure rope "A" off at the bush near the edge, which your 2nd is tied into. Then pull up only enough rope of rope "B" to reach solid anchors a fair bit back from the cliff edge where you should untie from and attach the end of this rope to the anchor. Rope "B" ends up hanging +10m or so up the cliff so your second can't be tied into this rope. Go back to edge carefully and secure yourself ready to belay off rope "B". Using rope "A" you can then bring your 2nd up on rope "A" only until they can tie into rope "B" which should be before the first overhang. This avoids the need for a belay/faff and the route climbs much nicer in one.
phatlad 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nah, E2 and great value for it. Loved this route as 1st E2 on lime 10 years ago, repeated many times since - still fabulous
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nah, E2 and great value for it. Loved this route as 1st E2 on lime 10 years ago, repeated many times since - still fabulous
UKB Shark 4 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Followed it 4/5 weeks ago - a bit bold at the bulge at 35ft with runners in at a funny angle probably nudges what was a hard E2 to E3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Followed it 4/5 weeks ago - a bit bold at the bulge at 35ft with runners in at a funny angle probably nudges what was a hard E2 to E3
Graham Hoey 28 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The moves direct (actually v. slightly left of the bolt) are now very polished and hard for 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The moves direct (actually v. slightly left of the bolt) are now very polished and hard for 6a.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 138
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 131
Votes cast 116
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Laurin

Grade: E3 6a ***
(High Tor)
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