Rockfax Description
A gem of a route. It is best done in one pitch, but can be split either at the large break at 20m to reduce rope drag, or right of the flake almost in line with the Debauchery stance (in Perseus). Start below the prominent groove. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge. Pull through the bulge on the left and follow the crack above until a step right gains another crack. Continue past Debauchery into another groove on the left. Continue up the flake above to a position below the big old bolt and thread. Clip these then step left and tackle the left-facing groove with a stretch for the break. Finish up the steep groove. Alternatively climb past the bolt at a polished E3 6a as for Andromeda. © Rockfax
FFA. Pete Livesey in 1974. FA. Oliver Woolcock, Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1963. The current bolt was placed by Chris Craggs, nearly 20 years ago!.
Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , The High Tor Top Ten , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , It's "D" Day at High Tor , Classic Lobs , E is for Easy... Right? , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , The Festival Of Shite , Lime trad for hobbyists , Best Before 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Graeme Hammond | 23 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: How to climb in one pitch with 60m half ropes ("A" & "B") and belay: Once toped out you should untie and temporary secure rope "A" off at the bush near the edge, which your 2nd is tied into. Then pull up only enough rope of rope "B" to reach solid anchors a fair bit back from the cliff edge where you should untie from and attach the end of this rope to the anchor. Rope "B" ends up hanging +10m or so up the cliff so your second can't be tied into this rope. Go back to edge carefully and secure yourself ready to belay off rope "B". Using rope "A" you can then bring your 2nd up on rope "A" only until they can tie into rope "B" which should be before the first overhang. This avoids the need for a belay/faff and the route climbs much nicer in one. | ||
Show beta
βeta: How to climb in one pitch with 60m half ropes ("A" & "B") and belay: Once toped out you should untie and temporary secure rope "A" off at the bush near the edge, which your 2nd is tied into. Then pull up only enough rope of rope "B" to reach solid anchors a fair bit back from the cliff edge where you should untie from and attach the end of this rope to the anchor. Rope "B" ends up hanging +10m or so up the cliff so your second can't be tied into this rope. Go back to edge carefully and secure yourself ready to belay off rope "B". Using rope "A" you can then bring your 2nd up on rope "A" only until they can tie into rope "B" which should be before the first overhang. This avoids the need for a belay/faff and the route climbs much nicer in one. |
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phatlad | 19 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Nah, E2 and great value for it. Loved this route as 1st E2 on lime 10 years ago, repeated many times since - still fabulous | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nah, E2 and great value for it. Loved this route as 1st E2 on lime 10 years ago, repeated many times since - still fabulous |
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UKB Shark | 4 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Followed it 4/5 weeks ago - a bit bold at the bulge at 35ft with runners in at a funny angle probably nudges what was a hard E2 to E3 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Followed it 4/5 weeks ago - a bit bold at the bulge at 35ft with runners in at a funny angle probably nudges what was a hard E2 to E3 |
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Graham Hoey | 28 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: The moves direct (actually v. slightly left of the bolt) are now very polished and hard for 6a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The moves direct (actually v. slightly left of the bolt) are now very polished and hard for 6a. |
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rogerskews | 1987 |
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βeta: Steve cruised it, I did it urgently !! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Steve cruised it, I did it urgently !! |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)