A major and historic tick that can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. The route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Back up any old gear that you come across.
1) 5b, 21m. Traverse left from the base of Original Route, moving up to a peg. Keep going up left to two cracks (on Darius) - this can be done high or low with no change in grade. Move left again below the bulge then pull over to the famous stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Leave the stance via the left-hand crack to a peg. Make an awkward rising traverse leftwards (pegs) to easier ground below the break. Keep traversing horizontally left (more pegs) until you can pull up to a tree. © Rockfax
FFA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1967. FA. Chris Jackson, John Atkinson (some aid) 1965..
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