An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. The route is relatively easy for VS but oddly it is hard work all the way!
1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden holds to a hard exit and a stance at the base of the main corner.
2) 4c, 14m. Climb the tough wide groove (okay, it may be 5a) past a ledge (stance?) to a bigger picnic-style ledge on the left.
3) 3c, 10m. The groove above the ledge to a rightwards exit (direct is harder), or the one out to the right (4b). © Rockfax
FA. John Laycock 1909.
Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Hard Grit history, 100 Western Grit Stars, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Hen Cloud, On Peak Rock, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
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