Rockfax Description
A fine climb, varied and interesting. The first pitch is sweet though it is the second one that carries the full weight of the grade!
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance.
2) 5b, 14m. The solid jamming crack leads all too soon (unless you are pumped senseless) to easy ground. Exit boldly left up the wall or escape out right to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960s.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Caff's Cool E1s List , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , Hen Cloud , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Hardest E1s on grit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Dr Toph | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Beware detached boulder in exit slot of direct finish! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beware detached boulder in exit slot of direct finish! |
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Will Murphy | 24 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Felt hard today in the sun with it being a little green. Managed the first pitch with a cheeky heel hook but the crack evaded us as it went into the horizontal, so we escaped out left. Next time... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Felt hard today in the sun with it being a little green. Managed the first pitch with a cheeky heel hook but the crack evaded us as it went into the horizontal, so we escaped out left. Next time... |
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GrahamD | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Brilliant varied climb spoilt only slightly by being easily escapable at the mid height ledge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant varied climb spoilt only slightly by being easily escapable at the mid height ledge. |
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JTL | 30 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: the jamming crack is easy at speed (ie solo)i have done harder 4c's in the peak, a nice varied route | βeta? | |
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βeta: the jamming crack is easy at speed (ie solo)i have done harder 4c's in the peak, a nice varied route |
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Toby Dunn | 21 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: 5c?! hmmm... the jamming is easier than, say, matinee: a tad steep but with solid jams. pretty standard E1. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 5c?! hmmm... the jamming is easier than, say, matinee: a tad steep but with solid jams. pretty standard E1. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 14 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Excellent climbing, but that jamming crack is waay-pumpy towards the top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climbing, but that jamming crack is waay-pumpy towards the top! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Skyline)