A fine climb, varied and interesting. The first pitch is sweet though it is the second one that carries the full weight of the grade!
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance.
2) 5b, 14m. The solid jamming crack leads all too soon (unless you are pumped senseless) to easy ground. Exit boldly left up the wall or escape out right to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960s.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Hen Cloud, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
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