Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 26th February update: The Ravens do not appear to be using the existing nest in Gardoms Unconquerable - however one more check will be made in case they are late starting, so please be observant and report any sightings if you are in the area.
In recent years a Tawny Owl has nested in the Layback Crack/Flake Crack.area - it is not known if they are present in 2023 but please keep your eyes and ears out if climbing in this area.
Rockfax Description
A major classic. Climb the cracked slab to the overhang then swing around the arete. Pull up and make difficult moves to get back on the front face. The upper slab is delicate though gear is adequate nowadays with modern technology. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1955.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate E1 ticklist , 50 of the Best , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , E1's , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| andork123 | 25 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: found the crux fine once I was done getting pumped placing gear, didn't take the right gear so had to lower a rope...Twice. Lovely despite the faff climbing though! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: found the crux fine once I was done getting pumped placing gear, didn't take the right gear so had to lower a rope...Twice. Lovely despite the faff climbing though! |
||||
| Si dH | 12 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The gear at the bloc kadn below is bomber, and there is bombe rgear in the slanting crack when you first get o nthe slab, but above that the placements are all very worn, the sort of thing you could probabyl slump on but I dont thikn theyd take a fall (and they were all very small apart form a friend 2 in the obvious slot at the upper crux - which is utterly crap). Awesome route though. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The gear at the bloc kadn below is bomber, and there is bombe rgear in the slanting crack when you first get o nthe slab, but above that the placements are all very worn, the sort of thing you could probabyl slump on but I dont thikn theyd take a fall (and they were all very small apart form a friend 2 in the obvious slot at the upper crux - which is utterly crap). Awesome route though. |
||||
| MNA123 | 24 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the never lets up comment, but not with the bomber gear one, the only bit of gear i wouldn't have minded falling on was the in-situ sling round the block, all the cams looked crap. Hard move followed by hard move, great route but hard at the grade! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Agree with the never lets up comment, but not with the bomber gear one, the only bit of gear i wouldn't have minded falling on was the in-situ sling round the block, all the cams looked crap. Hard move followed by hard move, great route but hard at the grade! |
||||
| Andrew Barker | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux had me gripped! Not too hard a climb but it felt very exposed. Definitely a classic lead that I won't be doing again in a hurry! One to savour even more after you've done it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The crux had me gripped! Not too hard a climb but it felt very exposed. Definitely a classic lead that I won't be doing again in a hurry! One to savour even more after you've done it. |
||||
| stow | 4 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Drives home the truth of the old adage: never pass up an opportunity to place bomber gear. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route. Drives home the truth of the old adage: never pass up an opportunity to place bomber gear. |
||||
| The Pylon King | 17 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not as hard as i thought it would be and good gear all the way up (very small to medium cams essential) a bloody classic if ever there was one! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not as hard as i thought it would be and good gear all the way up (very small to medium cams essential) a bloody classic if ever there was one! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gardom's Edge
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Lime Street Direct
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)