Rockfax Description
One of the most sought-after routes in the area. Despite the 'Diff' climbing grade, it is also regarded as a classic Grade 3 scramble. All the difficulty is in the first pitch after which much easier scrambling leads up the crest of an exposed rocky ridge. The upper arete gives the route a real alpine feel. Start on the left side of Cwm Cneifion.
1) Start on the left side of the buttress and climb up steeply on reasonable holds to reach a belay on a small ledge - tricky, but it all gets easier above this.
2) Go up and left to gain a small gully and follow it up and right to the start of the arete proper. Revel in the exposure and delightful climbing all the way to the top. Finish on the 'football pitch' below y Gribin. Pitches not marked.
Descent - Descend from the top right-hand corner of the 'football pitch' back down into Cwm Cneifion. Alternatively, continue up y Gribin and descend via Senior's Ridge or down through The Devil's Kitchen having summitted Glyder Fawr. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
D/SG3. A steep, juggy pitch of moderate climbing and an awkward chimney lead to a superb grade three ridge scramble. Alpine in character, this route could only be improved if it was longer.
Top ridge scrambles of Britain , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Ogwen 1000 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Snowdonia in Chains , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Big Routes , The Long Routes , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles , Snowdonia *** Scrambles , No you're a punter , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Top 20 UK Diffs?
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Katzina.W | 17 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Great scramble, made me feel a bit as if I were in the Alps again! Really enjoyed it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great scramble, made me feel a bit as if I were in the Alps again! Really enjoyed it. |
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Sichuang Chai (Gerald) | 7 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: An old cam was stuck in a crack. | ||
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βeta: An old cam was stuck in a crack. |
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PappaDaq | 20 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: One of the best scrambles I’ve ever done, would give it 4* if I could but that may be me being biased have as it was a beaut of a day and I was climbing with my favourite people ?? | ||
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βeta: One of the best scrambles I’ve ever done, would give it 4* if I could but that may be me being biased have as it was a beaut of a day and I was climbing with my favourite people ?? |
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Mimi White | 13 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Mega fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: Mega fun |
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SophieW | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Wobbly spikes in places | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wobbly spikes in places |
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Tall Oak | 10 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Quality route and can be done with 2,3s all roped up alpine style. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quality route and can be done with 2,3s all roped up alpine style. |
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ChrisWills | 3 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Few loose bits so careful of people below! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Few loose bits so careful of people below! |
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crinklecrags | 15 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Very visible protruding rock sticking out of the wall two-thirds of the way up the fourth pitch is loose but not gone yet. Watch for gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very visible protruding rock sticking out of the wall two-thirds of the way up the fourth pitch is loose but not gone yet. Watch for gear. |
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Jack Doyle | 14 May, 2020 |
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βeta: with Theo as a mock client | βeta? | |
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βeta: with Theo as a mock client |
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Jack Doyle | 14 May, 2020 |
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βeta: in descent for some MCI practice | βeta? | |
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βeta: in descent for some MCI practice |
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liensiwel | 22 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: it's a pity that ice axes and crampons are destroying such a beautiful mountaineering route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: it's a pity that ice axes and crampons are destroying such a beautiful mountaineering route. |
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glaramara | 17 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Saved the day, yet again. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Saved the day, yet again. |
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Michael Hellyer | 17 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Run first pitch to beyond chimney (approx 30m) and then move together. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Run first pitch to beyond chimney (approx 30m) and then move together. |
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manmike | 9 Apr, 2016 |
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βeta: Plenty of fresh snow added to the alpine feel. Cracking route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Plenty of fresh snow added to the alpine feel. Cracking route. |
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Grade: D ***
(Tryfan)