UKH

140m.

Rockfax Description
This is one of the most sought-after routes in the area. Despite the 'Diff' climbing grade, it is also regarded as a classic grade 3 scramble. All the difficulty is in the first pitch, after which it is much easier scrambling up the crest of an exposed rocky ridge. The upper arete gives the route a real alpine feel. The route is often combined with something on the Idwal Slab and Senior's Area routes to make a full day out. Start in Cwm Cneifion, a little further on from Pinnacle Edge.
1) Start on the left side of the buttress and climb up steeply on reasonable holds to reach a belay on a small ledge. Tricky, but it all gets easier above this.
2) Go up and left to gain a small gully and follow it up and right to the start of the arete proper.
3) Revel in the exposure and delightful climbing all the way to the top. Finish on the 'football pitch' below y Gribin.
Descent - Continue up y Gribin and descend via Senior's Ridge or down through The Devil's Kitchen having summited Glyder Fawr. Alternatively, descend from the top right-hand corner of the 'football pitch' back down into Cwm Cneifion to link with Maybe Tower Rib. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
D/SG3. A steep, juggy pitch of moderate climbing and an awkward chimney lead to a superb grade three ridge scramble. Alpine in character, this route could only be improved if it was longer.

Ticklists

Top ridge scrambles of Britain, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton, North wales road to ruins HVS, North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Ogwen 1000, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Snowdonia in Chains, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Big Routes, The Long Routes, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Ogwen, Mountain Rock, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge, Hard Rock & Other Classics, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

Feedback

User Date Notes
SophieW 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly spikes in places
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wobbly spikes in places
Tall Oak 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Quality route and can be done with 2,3s all roped up alpine style.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality route and can be done with 2,3s all roped up alpine style.
ChrisWills 3 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Few loose bits so careful of people below!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Few loose bits so careful of people below!
crinklecrags 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very visible protruding rock sticking out of the wall two-thirds of the way up the fourth pitch is loose but not gone yet. Watch for gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Very visible protruding rock sticking out of the wall two-thirds of the way up the fourth pitch is loose but not gone yet. Watch for gear.
Jack Doyle 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: with Theo as a mock client
Show beta
βeta: with Theo as a mock client
Jack Doyle 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: in descent for some MCI practice
Show beta
βeta: in descent for some MCI practice
liensiwel 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: it's a pity that ice axes and crampons are destroying such a beautiful mountaineering route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: it's a pity that ice axes and crampons are destroying such a beautiful mountaineering route.
glaramara 17 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Saved the day, yet again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Saved the day, yet again.
Michael Hellyer 17 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Run first pitch to beyond chimney (approx 30m) and then move together.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Run first pitch to beyond chimney (approx 30m) and then move together.
manmike 9 Apr, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of fresh snow added to the alpine feel. Cracking route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Plenty of fresh snow added to the alpine feel. Cracking route.

Logged Ascents

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Votes cast 206
Votes cast 249
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pillar Chimney

Grade: D ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)
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