This is one of the most sought-after routes in the area. Despite the 'Diff' climbing grade, it is also regarded as a classic grade 3 scramble. All the difficulty is in the first pitch, after which it is much easier scrambling up the crest of an exposed rocky ridge. The upper arete gives the route a real alpine feel. The route is often combined with something on the Idwal Slab and Senior's Area routes to make a full day out. Start in Cwm Cneifion, a little further on from Pinnacle Edge.
1) Start on the left side of the buttress and climb up steeply on reasonable holds to reach a belay on a small ledge. Tricky, but it all gets easier above this.
2) Go up and left to gain a small gully and follow it up and right to the start of the arete proper.
3) Revel in the exposure and delightful climbing all the way to the top. Finish on the 'football pitch' below y Gribin.
Descent - Continue up y Gribin and descend via Senior's Ridge or down through The Devil's Kitchen having summited Glyder Fawr. Alternatively, descend from the top right-hand corner of the 'football pitch' back down into Cwm Cneifion to link with Maybe Tower Rib. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
D/SG3. A steep, juggy pitch of moderate climbing and an awkward chimney lead to a superb grade three ridge scramble. Alpine in character, this route could only be improved if it was longer.
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