Rockfax Description
An enjoyable route which feels adventurous due to loose rock. Care is needed throughout, but if the going gets tough you can escape into the gully on the right and ascend that to the col. On entering Cwm Cneifion, overshoot the base of the route then double back up a faint path to the base of the crag. Turn right and follow the base to the start of the right ridge of the pinnacle.
1) Climb the gully to the right of the ridge until you can join the crest above the initial steep start. There is a more direct start but the rock is steep and loose.
2) From here, climb the crest passing over several rocky sections - care needed with loose holds and spikes. The rocky section to the pinnacle provides an exposed finale.
3) Cross over the col and head straight up the hillside. A harder finish can be made up Pinnacle Edge from the col. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Rib parallel to and left of Cneifion Arete, before you get to Pinnacle Edge (basically the LH edge of RH Pinnacle Gully). In the original version of Scrambles in Snowdonia and as Steve says, "escapable but pleasant enough".
Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Winter Scouting missions
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Grade: Grade-2 ***
(Glyder Fawr)