UKH

Rockfax Description
Only slightly easier than its direct neighbour and not as good.
1) 4c, 20m. As for Merlin Direct.
2) 5a, 30m. Follow Merlin Direct to the move rightwards out of the groove onto the rib. Head up and traverse rightwards below the steepening and move round into a corner. Belay on a tree below a final steep corner.
3) 4a, 5m. Battle up the final corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The main flake of p2 has fallen down as of November 2023.

It's has been reclimbed but is a significantly bolder proposition. From the p1 belay climb up the slab as before then climb the steep right hand wall boldly on good holds. HVS 4c?

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , North Wales Summer 21' , Welsh Roadtrip , Welsh Roadtrip

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grey Slab

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)

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