Rockfax Description
A popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb left up a crack to an overhang. Now make a hard move up and right up two cracks and into the base of a groove. An easier alternative is to step left at the overhang and then move up right along a ramp to the base of the groove. Climb the groove to an exciting exit left at the top to a belay.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the slab up and left to the base of a wide crack. Climb this to where it gets too wide and step out right onto the arete and follow easier ground up and left to a ledge below a steepening crack. Arrange gear and step left onto the headwall to gain a steep crack on the left which leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Post pitch 2 rockfall November 2023.
It's has been reclimbed but is a significantly bolder proposition. From the p1 belay climb up the slab as before then climb the steep right hand wall boldly on good holds.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Top Five HVSs In The UK? , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The V.S.+ Ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , York University Students path to greatness , Definitive *** Tremadog , Target Routes 2019/2020 , North Wales Summer 21' , Summer 2021 , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , Wales Trip - 2022 , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FaffmasterG | 13 Aug |
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βeta: Pitch 2: me and my partner agree E1-E2 5b in its current state (aug 2024) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 2: me and my partner agree E1-E2 5b in its current state (aug 2024) |
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| Katep | 10 Jun |
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βeta: Some very loose blocks above the belay after pitch 1. I’d question the stability and possibility of further Rock falls. If you choose to take the risk I’d advise treading lightly and with care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some very loose blocks above the belay after pitch 1. I’d question the stability and possibility of further Rock falls. If you choose to take the risk I’d advise treading lightly and with care. |
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| Steve Long | 24 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: The main pitch has indeed lost the layback crack, but the wall and arete of Merlin can still be climbed via an awkward entry. A small wire placed with care protects this move, otherwise its pretty bold. After this its straight up to rejoin the original line of Merlin Direct, still just as excellent. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The main pitch has indeed lost the layback crack, but the wall and arete of Merlin can still be climbed via an awkward entry. A small wire placed with care protects this move, otherwise its pretty bold. After this its straight up to rejoin the original line of Merlin Direct, still just as excellent. |
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| Tim Neill | 18 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: Post Rockfall, Autumn ‘23. Still a lovely route, entirely possible and only a fraction more difficult. The section up the rib just right of the recent rockfall is a fair bit bolder without the good jams and gear it used to have for that section. Otherwise the rest of the climb is the same. Perhaps now a top end HVS rather than its previous entry level standard. Plenty of loose debris just to the left of the midway stance. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Post Rockfall, Autumn ‘23. Still a lovely route, entirely possible and only a fraction more difficult. The section up the rib just right of the recent rockfall is a fair bit bolder without the good jams and gear it used to have for that section. Otherwise the rest of the climb is the same. Perhaps now a top end HVS rather than its previous entry level standard. Plenty of loose debris just to the left of the midway stance. |
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| Larry Benoy | 15 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Lots of loose VERY blocks directly above belay at beginning of P2, take care | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose VERY blocks directly above belay at beginning of P2, take care |
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| ipfreely | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Superb route. I led P2 - Ross P1, which has a tricky section moving right toward the tree as the feet are a bit poor, P2 is an absolute peach, a couple of tricky moves on the slab just before the big crack, The crack itself is a lovely jamming romp, had to shuffle my blue cam up a couple of times, I would highly recommend Not putting any gear behind the big flake on the right or pulling on it, it’s not at all necessary. Up a bit more then The move left looks hard, but the thin crack over there is lovely finger locks. 1 tricky little move right at the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb route. I led P2 - Ross P1, which has a tricky section moving right toward the tree as the feet are a bit poor, P2 is an absolute peach, a couple of tricky moves on the slab just before the big crack, The crack itself is a lovely jamming romp, had to shuffle my blue cam up a couple of times, I would highly recommend Not putting any gear behind the big flake on the right or pulling on it, it’s not at all necessary. Up a bit more then The move left looks hard, but the thin crack over there is lovely finger locks. 1 tricky little move right at the top. |
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| Emlyn Price | 20 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Large loose flake at the top of the Crack which sounds hollow and seems to be Detatched, directly in line with belayer. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large loose flake at the top of the Crack which sounds hollow and seems to be Detatched, directly in line with belayer. |
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| g1m147 | 8 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Pitch 2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 2. |
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| Rowman Pughe | 9 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Absolute quality and very steady on jugs | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolute quality and very steady on jugs |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Brant Direct
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)