UKH

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb left up a crack to an overhang. Now make a hard move up and right up two cracks and into the base of a groove. An easier alternative is to step left at the overhang and then move up right along a ramp to the base of the groove. Climb the groove to an exciting exit left at the top to a belay.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the slab up and left to the base of a wide crack. Climb this to where it gets too wide and step out right onto the arete and follow easier ground up and left to a ledge below a steepening crack. Arrange gear and step left onto the headwall to gain a steep crack on the left which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Top Five HVSs In The UK?, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Libby Peter's HVS Hit List, York University Students path to greatness, Definitive *** Tremadog, Target Routes 2019/2020, North Wales Summer 21', Summer 2021, I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber

Feedback

User Date Notes
ipfreely 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. I led P2 - Ross P1, which has a tricky section moving right toward the tree as the feet are a bit poor, P2 is an absolute peach, a couple of tricky moves on the slab just before the big crack, The crack itself is a lovely jamming romp, had to shuffle my blue cam up a couple of times, I would highly recommend Not putting any gear behind the big flake on the right or pulling on it, it’s not at all necessary. Up a bit more then The move left looks hard, but the thin crack over there is lovely finger locks. 1 tricky little move right at the top.
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. I led P2 - Ross P1, which has a tricky section moving right toward the tree as the feet are a bit poor, P2 is an absolute peach, a couple of tricky moves on the slab just before the big crack, The crack itself is a lovely jamming romp, had to shuffle my blue cam up a couple of times, I would highly recommend Not putting any gear behind the big flake on the right or pulling on it, it’s not at all necessary. Up a bit more then The move left looks hard, but the thin crack over there is lovely finger locks. 1 tricky little move right at the top.
Emlyn Price 20 May Show βeta
βeta: Large loose flake at the top of the Crack which sounds hollow and seems to be Detatched, directly in line with belayer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose flake at the top of the Crack which sounds hollow and seems to be Detatched, directly in line with belayer.
g1m147 8 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2.
Rowan Page 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute quality and very steady on jugs
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolute quality and very steady on jugs

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High E1
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Low HVS
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 243
Votes cast 238
Style of Ascent
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Followed
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Toproped
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Onsighted
Repeated
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Route of Interest

Superdirect

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Tryfan)
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