Rockfax Description
395m. This long and varied classic is one of the most popular climbs on the island. Being south facing it dries quickly. From below, the ridge rises as a steep nose out of a jumble of vegetated slabs. A very distinctive elongated S-shaped crack splits the face of the nose and this is the first main pitch of the route.
1, 2, 3. 130m VD Climb vegetated slabs by the line of least resistance to the base of the S-Crack and a large flake on the left.
4. 20m 4c Climb the S-Crack to a wide shelf with a block.
5. 10m 5a The overhanging Y-Crack.
6. 45m Move up to a block-strewn terrace, step around a rib on the left, then make an easy ascending diagonal traverse across the top of the great western slabs to take an awkward belay in the far corner below the Layback Crack.
7. 20m 4b Climb the Layback Crack until a vein runs out to the right. Follow it across the slab (good hand holds above) to reach a large platform via a short corner. A fine pitch.
8. 30m Above the platform, on the left side of the ridge crest, lies the chimney of Sou'wester Slabs (the Three-Tier Chimney). Climb it to gain the ridge crest.
9,10. 55m Two easy pitches along the crest lead to The Terrace below the Upper Pinnacle. The Upper Pinnacle can be avoided by walking off The Terrace, but it gives good quality climbing at about VD standard and should not be omitted.
11. 40m Start on the left and climb a short steep wall, via two undercut flakes, to gain a slab. Climb straight up this, near the ridge crest, to gain a fault coming in from the right. Follow this, then climb a chimney to a grass ledge.
12. 35m Move left across the grass ledge to a little chimney. Climb the slab on its right to the ridge crest. Move round right onto the east face, then make an exposed traverse right to a corner. Climb the corner to a crevasse belay.
13. 15m Climb a corner and short slab to the top of the Upper Pinnacle. A short descent leads to a path traversing westward to join the descent path of Cir Mhòr's South-West Ridge. However, if time and energy allow, an ascent of The Rosetta Stone en-route to the summit of Cir Mhòr provides a fitting climax to end a splendid climb.
FA J.F.Hamilton, D.Paterson, Sep 1941 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not sustained but long and interesting.

J.F.Hamilton, D. Paterson 1941.

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