120m, 6 pitches. This description has been written by a contributor and checked by the guidebook moderator- however, pitch variations and belay locations differ from many of the guidebook descriptions, but future climbers may find the beta contained here useful.
Approach: Descend Pinnacle Gully (hidden between the pinnacles) and Sub Rosa Gully or ascend Sub Rosa Gully to the Upper East Face - ignore Old East(D)as a descent route, too grassy and dangerous. On the Upper East Face is an enormous 30m high 'boulder' the monolithic wall. On its [RIGHT] side is an alleyway formed by an enormous jammed block.
1, Enter the alleyway and up the ramp. An awkward off-width crack on the left leads to a grassy platform (21m). 2, There are two chimneys/jumbled crack systems on your right. Take the one to the left in the corner. Climb this gruntingly. Pass a level platform and move rightwards ignoring the cavernous upwards opening on your left. Follow the continuation of the crack to a steep sloping turf platform on your right. Belay (13m). 3, A traverse left seems unlikely at VD. But exists. There is an off-width horizontal crack above which leads to a square partly undercut corner. Descend slightly from the grass platform to awkwardly gain the wall, traverse leftwards (gear) and upwards to gain the off-width horizontal crack. Belay in the corner. (8m). 4, Ascend the crack above the undercut corner and scramble over turf ledges to belay at a standing stone in the depths of the Labyrinth (10m). 5i, Facing the crag, use the deep chimney on the right. Gain the initial chockstone and chimney up (scarce gear) EXIT THIS CHIMNEY HALF WAY UP cunningly to a flat grass platform on the left (facing the crag) - who knows what direction you'll be facing in that chimney. 5ii, In right hand corner of the platform is a chimney/crack system full of wedged chockstones. A tricky move gets you started. Thuggy moves upwards require care as ONE OF THE VERY BIG CHOCKSTONES IS NOT WEDGED AND COULD EASILY PULL OUT. Over chockstones and under last one to a classic through route - tweeds an advantage. (15m) 6. You are now beneath the prow either on a platform called the eyrie, or just below (if at mouth of through route). The wall to the left of the prow overhangs slightly. You can exit right of the prow at VD/severe initially on a traverse right and then up on grassy ledges. If you have got this far then you really should do the sensational VS4b direct finish which is the pitch of the climb: Staying close to the off-width climb over large boulders to the left of the prow until a corner at the headwall is reached with an off-width on your right. A classic layback is now required - the flake/flange on the wall in front can not be seen until up very close. Layback it commitingly (though there is gear) into the corner level with two horizontal leftwards breaks. Traverse these leftwards until deposited on a grass ledge. Up easily to join the final easy pitch of South Ridge Direct at a good belay above the traverse.

G C Curtis, H K Moneypenny 26/Sep/1943.


Classic Rock, Scottish Classic Rock, The Original 'Classic Rock' List


User Date Notes
PaulJepson 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A size 6 Camalot is worth taking up. The back&foot chimney is hard to protect but a big cam in the other crack makes it less risky.
Show beta
βeta: A size 6 Camalot is worth taking up. The back&foot chimney is hard to protect but a big cam in the other crack makes it less risky.

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Votes cast 19
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Dogleg / Blank Linkup

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Rosa Slabs)
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