Rockfax Description
One of Cornwall's greatest VS routes, requiring a broad selection of techniques. The line follows the huge corner up the middle of Bishop's Buttress before making a memorable leftwards traverse to clear the huge roof. Start at a short crack just left of the corner-line.
1) 5a, 20m. Move up to a long ledge and then head right to a wide crack. Climb the slab and corner right of the wide crack (or the wide crack itself) to join up with the wide crack once again at 7m. Climb the widening crack awkwardly to a stance in the back of the crack beneath the roof.
2) 5a, 10m. Make a technical horizontal traverse left across the face and move up a little way to a stance where the overhang fades. (The crack that runs underneath the roof to the stance may also be climbed at around the same standard).
3) 4a, 15m. Climb cracks in the wall directly above the stance to a large ledge and block-belays.
4) 4b, 11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge as for Flannel Avenue. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , UK Classic Corners , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Adventure ticklist 2018 , South West Classic VS's , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Pre-departure , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , 24 For 2024! , Dan’s Delights , Kernow , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , HS-HVS adventures , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Cornwall - October 2023 , Llidberis South West Tour

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