An exquisite climb that culminates in a breathtaking finale at the very top of the crag. Start just right of a low, overhung niche.1) 4b, 22m. Take the line of left-trending flakes to a small corner groove and climb this to a ledge and good belay. The pitch can be climbed direct, passing the overhung niche on its right at HVS 5a.2) 4a, 14m. On the right is a blank-looking slab, climb the slab rightwards on good small holds to a huge flake. Scramble behind it to a good ledge and belay on its opposite side.3) 5a, 30m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left before climbing up slightly right to easier territory. Layback up the exposed, leaning cracks in the headwall to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The peg on the crux of P3 is now broken off and missing - note there is good gear available next to it. Please do not replace - the agreed policy for West Penwith is no new fixed gear and let old gear rust in peace.
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, Very good routes in the UK, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, CUMC Ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, South West Classic VS's, Libby Peter's VS Hit List, Definitive *** West Cornwall, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Trips
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