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66m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exquisite climb that culminates in a breathtaking finale at the very top of the crag. Start just right of a low, overhung niche.
1) 4b, 22m. Take the line of left-trending flakes to a small corner groove and climb this to a ledge and good belay. The pitch can be climbed direct, passing the overhung niche on its right at HVS 5a.
2) 4a, 14m. On the right is a blank-looking slab, climb the slab rightwards on good small holds to a huge flake. Scramble behind it to a good ledge and belay on its opposite side.
3) 5a, 30m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left before climbing up slightly right to easier territory. Layback up the exposed, leaning cracks in the headwall to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The peg on the crux of P3 is now broken off and missing - note there is good gear available next to it. Please do not replace - the agreed policy for West Penwith is no new fixed gear and let old gear rust in peace.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, Very good routes in the UK, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, CUMC Ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, South West Classic VS's, Libby Peter's VS Hit List, Definitive *** West Cornwall, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Trips

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gazmataz 1 Nov Show βeta
βeta: The peg at the crux on pitch 3 has gone. Looks like it was eroded long ago. Still protectable with some cams.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg at the crux on pitch 3 has gone. Looks like it was eroded long ago. Still protectable with some cams.
alex505c 6 Oct Show βeta
βeta: BD 0.3 (blue) Z4 was useful for protecting the crux.
 
Show beta
βeta: BD 0.3 (blue) Z4 was useful for protecting the crux.
kempy7 30 Sep Show βeta
βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later!
kempy7 30 Sep Show βeta
βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later!
Chris_Tee 17 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Probably the best VS in the country?!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably the best VS in the country?!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 283
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 275
Votes cast 268
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Down Under, Up Top

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Predannack Head Area)