UKH

56m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Energetic lower moves lead the way to a superbly airy top pitch that requires careful route finding. Start just right of the awkward step-down in the path at a left-slanting hand-crack.
1) 4a, 8m. Nip up the crack to a large grassy ledge with a big flake on it.
2) 4a, 20m. Strenuously climb the flake and pull onto another ledge. More flakes lead up and rightwards before a step right gains a small foot-ledge and various belays at the top of the reddish rake and just beneath a long black vein and weakness that runs up leftward. This is just above the larger ledge of the Nameless belay at the top of its first pitch.
3) 4b, 28m. Move up above the black diagonal vein to a good runner and step leftwards with feet just above the vein to an easing in a scoop. Finish via much easier climbing along the diagonal break. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Kernow , West Country Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Diamond in the Rough , Ultimate HS ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , Kernow

Feedback

User Date Notes
P.Tully 15 Apr Show βeta
βeta: use nameless belay
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: use nameless belay
kim.mulji 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Second belay poorly protected. Better to drop down and traverse right to a much better ledge belay (only big enough for one). Not room for two people at either belay!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second belay poorly protected. Better to drop down and traverse right to a much better ledge belay (only big enough for one). Not room for two people at either belay!
stevelismore 9 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The suggested belay point for the top of pitch 2, on the ledge, has very few gear placements. Better to go a bit higher before stopping.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The suggested belay point for the top of pitch 2, on the ledge, has very few gear placements. Better to go a bit higher before stopping.
sian88 30 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really awkward belay at top of pitch 2, more of a crux than the actual climbing. Makes it quite serious for HS, not worth the stars given.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awkward belay at top of pitch 2, more of a crux than the actual climbing. Makes it quite serious for HS, not worth the stars given.
mishabruml 16 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd belay is crap- just use the nameless belay. Easy climbing to get there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd belay is crap- just use the nameless belay. Easy climbing to get there
andybenham 6 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Belay after p2 seems to be a semi hanging stance just right of the small ledge & is quite uncomfortable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay after p2 seems to be a semi hanging stance just right of the small ledge & is quite uncomfortable
JR22997 29 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sketchy second belay. First route back after a few months out, embarrassingly difficult feeling.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sketchy second belay. First route back after a few months out, embarrassingly difficult feeling.

Logged Ascents

861 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bosigran

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 118 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 87
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
No More Mosstakes

Grade: HS 4b ***
(St. Clether Crag)

Loading Notifications...