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14m.

Rockfax Description
An ancient classic. Climb the initial awkward and polished groove then continue directly up the chimney. Back and foot technique is best though squirming up the back also works. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Chatsworth to Bamford, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Consolidation and developmental path to VS, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
RM199 20 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Seemed easy for severe, though a very nice route I am a caver so I think that helps, whaling is all part of the fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seemed easy for severe, though a very nice route I am a caver so I think that helps, whaling is all part of the fun
fenclimb 30 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: easy climb the last move is pretty 'orriable though but you can get a Hex in above you before you do it, also did the whale top out as I was leading it for my climbing club, no one saw but i got to laugh at my seccond do the same
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy climb the last move is pretty 'orriable though but you can get a Hex in above you before you do it, also did the whale top out as I was leading it for my climbing club, no one saw but i got to laugh at my seccond do the same

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 107
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 103
Votes cast 108
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)