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12m.

Rockfax Description
A classic and low in the grade - except for the short! Approach the overhang via a crack and groove (thread) and power through the bulge via a flake. The slab above is much easier. The cam slot in the roof has become dramatically enlarged by people sitting on the gear and grinding the rock. It is tough love but if you are resting on the gear maybe the route is too hard for you. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1951.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Consolidation and developmental path to VS, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
outdoors.nick 21 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Please try to avoid using the massively eroded cam/hex slot. It'll only get worse. The thread is bomber.
βeta?
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βeta: Please try to avoid using the massively eroded cam/hex slot. It'll only get worse. The thread is bomber.
MorganMcGlade 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: just below the crux, you can put a sling through a hole with quick draw coming off. good protection for the move.
 
Show beta
βeta: just below the crux, you can put a sling through a hole with quick draw coming off. good protection for the move.
kipper12 10 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Was there recently and thought the hex placment in topsail had been chipped, the grit is very orange, compared to remaininf rock.
βeta?
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βeta: Was there recently and thought the hex placment in topsail had been chipped, the grit is very orange, compared to remaininf rock.
Chris the Tall 29 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The underside of the overhang appears to be eroding at an alarming rate - presumably by people putting friends in the wide crack. Please try and avoid this - a sling round the thread is surely all you need
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The underside of the overhang appears to be eroding at an alarming rate - presumably by people putting friends in the wide crack. Please try and avoid this - a sling round the thread is surely all you need
Jonny2vests 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5c? Absolutely Not. Adam has it right. If you want HVS 5c (and there aint many) try Orpheus Wall.
βeta?
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βeta: HVS 5c? Absolutely Not. Adam has it right. If you want HVS 5c (and there aint many) try Orpheus Wall.
Mutl3y 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Adam on the grade. Easy to get up to crux, bomber gear, one move wonder. 1 star IMO.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with Adam on the grade. Easy to get up to crux, bomber gear, one move wonder. 1 star IMO.
MNA123 12 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I've done this route a couple of times and i do like it but in my opinion its only worth top end HS 4b and i'm a shortarse.
βeta?
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βeta: I've done this route a couple of times and i do like it but in my opinion its only worth top end HS 4b and i'm a shortarse.
Ander 11 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Unlike Rob, I don't object to good, clean, safe as house, not a grovel or thrutch routes, so I thought Topsail was good. Bit harder for the short (like me) who have to work a bit harder for the hold, but great for a one move wonder route, and still recomendable.
βeta?
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βeta: Unlike Rob, I don't object to good, clean, safe as house, not a grovel or thrutch routes, so I thought Topsail was good. Bit harder for the short (like me) who have to work a bit harder for the hold, but great for a one move wonder route, and still recomendable.
Mike Lee 10 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It was great!
βeta?
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βeta: It was great!
Robo 21 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree. It is a great move though. Quite intimidating at first...then it all gets nice again.
βeta?
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βeta: Totally agree. It is a great move though. Quite intimidating at first...then it all gets nice again.
MJS 24 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A one move route. But what a move! Go for it.
βeta?
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βeta: A one move route. But what a move! Go for it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 429
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 402
Votes cast 396
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wall End Slab

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)