UKH Hills - 'Powder Monkey Parade'

16m.

Rockfax Description
From the chock move right onto the arete, swing round the corner (4b, but harder for the short who will have to dangle), then teeter out right and finish up the well-positioned slab. Nice. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1951.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Chatsworth to Bamford , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
MJS	10 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Ungradeable first moves, but fun. Amazing afterwards, that traverse is a beauty at that amenable grade. Try double ropes.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ungradeable first moves, but fun. Amazing afterwards, that traverse is a beauty at that amenable grade. Try double ropes.
Kryank	19 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: That start is a chicken winging squirm, jam fest, I struggled my way up to the chockstone, then clung on to it for all I was worth. Thought this would be an easy warm up lead for the other 2 classic rock ticks at Birchen, but I honestly though it was harder.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: That start is a chicken winging squirm, jam fest, I struggled my way up to the chockstone, then clung on to it for all I was worth. Thought this would be an easy warm up lead for the other 2 classic rock ticks at Birchen, but I honestly though it was harder.
BeckettAnna	14 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: With some assistance on the start	βeta?
Show beta βeta: With some assistance on the start
Ratfeeder	13 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Foot-jam and squirm up to reach top of chockstone
Show beta βeta: Foot-jam and squirm up to reach top of chockstone
Madajo	7 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: First move feels much harder than 4b.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First move feels much harder than 4b.
andyebbens	1 Jan, 2006	Show βeta βeta: If the start is climbed elegantly, requires some careful footjamming 4b/4c. Am sure ungradable thrutching / heaving is also possible! The traverse is basically a walk for anyone climbing at VS.
Show beta βeta: If the start is climbed elegantly, requires some careful footjamming 4b/4c. Am sure ungradable thrutching / heaving is also possible! The traverse is basically a walk for anyone climbing at VS.
davidwright	16 Nov, 2005	Show βeta βeta: definatly severe as it is in the BMC guidebook. The start is thruchy but not hard and not 4c. An easier route than sunset slab or even greengut on frogatt. The last (1996) BMC guide upgraded a lot of birchens routes (but not this one) as they are unprotectable and the objective grades were given when nobody expected runners on gritstone. 'cos the pro is better it is 30 years since anybody expected a leg snapping deck out at the crux of a VDiff. Its not that these routes have become harder it is that they are comparitvely more serious than they were.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: definatly severe as it is in the BMC guidebook. The start is thruchy but not hard and not 4c. An easier route than sunset slab or even greengut on frogatt. The last (1996) BMC guide upgraded a lot of birchens routes (but not this one) as they are unprotectable and the objective grades were given when nobody expected runners on gritstone. 'cos the pro is better it is 30 years since anybody expected a leg snapping deck out at the crux of a VDiff. Its not that these routes have become harder it is that they are comparitvely more serious than they were.
Si dH	6 Aug, 2004	Show βeta βeta: The start is easy, just jam your foot, grab the chock, push and pull. Nothing to it.
Show beta βeta: The start is easy, just jam your foot, grab the chock, push and pull. Nothing to it.
Chris Fitzhugh	17 Jun, 2004	Show βeta βeta: If you work out the trad/VDiff start, you don't even need to touch the jammed boulder. And climb back down for fun! Chris	βeta?
Show beta βeta: If you work out the trad/VDiff start, you don't even need to touch the jammed boulder. And climb back down for fun! Chris
Ander	30 Nov, 2003	Show βeta βeta: 4a start for anyone who didn't learn to climb on an indoor wall, I'm afraid, fellas.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 4a start for anyone who didn't learn to climb on an indoor wall, I'm afraid, fellas.
Simon Caldwell	27 Oct, 2003	Show βeta βeta: I've just done Spiral Route at Rivelin, another route with a hand traverse. Apparently it is now the same grade as Power Monkey Parade :-\|	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I've just done Spiral Route at Rivelin, another route with a hand traverse. Apparently it is now the same grade as Power Monkey Parade :-\|
Simon Caldwell	27 Jun, 2002	Show βeta βeta: No question of having to dangle on the traverse unless you've broken both your ankles. The hard bit's leaving the ground, and even that was quite easy with a well placed foot jam. HS tops, I'd say S 4a. And yes it's harder than Heather Wall, but Heather Wall is VDiff not Severe, whatever Rockfax (and Brian) say!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: No question of having to dangle on the traverse unless you've broken both your ankles. The hard bit's leaving the ground, and even that was quite easy with a well placed foot jam. HS tops, I'd say S 4a. And yes it's harder than Heather Wall, but Heather Wall is VDiff not Severe, whatever Rockfax (and Brian) say!
LakesWinter	14 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: I agree, it was a severe 4a in the old guide and still is in reality, just a tough start but no more than severe after that, maybe severe 4b tops	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I agree, it was a severe 4a in the old guide and still is in reality, just a tough start but no more than severe after that, maybe severe 4b tops