UKH

16m.

Rockfax Description
From the chock move right onto the arete, swing round the corner (4b, but harder for the short who will have to dangle), then teeter out right and finish up the well-positioned slab. Nice. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1951.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Chatsworth to Bamford , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S

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User Date Notes
Kryank 19 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: That start is a chicken winging squirm, jam fest, I struggled my way up to the chockstone, then clung on to it for all I was worth. Thought this would be an easy warm up lead for the other 2 classic rock ticks at Birchen, but I honestly though it was harder.
βeta?
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βeta: That start is a chicken winging squirm, jam fest, I struggled my way up to the chockstone, then clung on to it for all I was worth. Thought this would be an easy warm up lead for the other 2 classic rock ticks at Birchen, but I honestly though it was harder.
BeckettAnna 14 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: With some assistance on the start
βeta?
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βeta: With some assistance on the start
Ratfeeder 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Foot-jam and squirm up to reach top of chockstone
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βeta: Foot-jam and squirm up to reach top of chockstone
Madajo 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First move feels much harder than 4b.
βeta?
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βeta: First move feels much harder than 4b.
andyebbens 1 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If the start is climbed elegantly, requires some careful footjamming 4b/4c. Am sure ungradable thrutching / heaving is also possible! The traverse is basically a walk for anyone climbing at VS.
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βeta: If the start is climbed elegantly, requires some careful footjamming 4b/4c. Am sure ungradable thrutching / heaving is also possible! The traverse is basically a walk for anyone climbing at VS.
davidwright 16 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: definatly severe as it is in the BMC guidebook. The start is thruchy but not hard and not 4c. An easier route than sunset slab or even greengut on frogatt. The last (1996) BMC guide upgraded a lot of birchens routes (but not this one) as they are unprotectable and the objective grades were given when nobody expected runners on gritstone. 'cos the pro is better it is 30 years since anybody expected a leg snapping deck out at the crux of a VDiff. Its not that these routes have become harder it is that they are comparitvely more serious than they were.
βeta?
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βeta: definatly severe as it is in the BMC guidebook. The start is thruchy but not hard and not 4c. An easier route than sunset slab or even greengut on frogatt. The last (1996) BMC guide upgraded a lot of birchens routes (but not this one) as they are unprotectable and the objective grades were given when nobody expected runners on gritstone. 'cos the pro is better it is 30 years since anybody expected a leg snapping deck out at the crux of a VDiff. Its not that these routes have become harder it is that they are comparitvely more serious than they were.
Si dH 6 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The start is easy, just jam your foot, grab the chock, push and pull. Nothing to it.
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βeta: The start is easy, just jam your foot, grab the chock, push and pull. Nothing to it.
Chris Fitzhugh 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you work out the trad/VDiff start, you don't even need to touch the jammed boulder. And climb back down for fun! Chris
βeta?
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βeta: If you work out the trad/VDiff start, you don't even need to touch the jammed boulder. And climb back down for fun! Chris
Ander 30 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: 4a start for anyone who didn't learn to climb on an indoor wall, I'm afraid, fellas.
βeta?
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βeta: 4a start for anyone who didn't learn to climb on an indoor wall, I'm afraid, fellas.
Simon Caldwell 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I've just done Spiral Route at Rivelin, another route with a hand traverse. Apparently it is now the same grade as Power Monkey Parade :-|
βeta?
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βeta: I've just done Spiral Route at Rivelin, another route with a hand traverse. Apparently it is now the same grade as Power Monkey Parade :-|
Simon Caldwell 27 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: No question of having to dangle on the traverse unless you've broken both your ankles. The hard bit's leaving the ground, and even that was quite easy with a well placed foot jam. HS tops, I'd say S 4a. And yes it's harder than Heather Wall, but Heather Wall is VDiff not Severe, whatever Rockfax (and Brian) say!
βeta?
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βeta: No question of having to dangle on the traverse unless you've broken both your ankles. The hard bit's leaving the ground, and even that was quite easy with a well placed foot jam. HS tops, I'd say S 4a. And yes it's harder than Heather Wall, but Heather Wall is VDiff not Severe, whatever Rockfax (and Brian) say!
LakesWinter 14 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, it was a severe 4a in the old guide and still is in reality, just a tough start but no more than severe after that, maybe severe 4b tops
βeta?
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βeta: I agree, it was a severe 4a in the old guide and still is in reality, just a tough start but no more than severe after that, maybe severe 4b tops

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 143
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 235
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Principia

Grade: S 4a ***
(Shining Clough)

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